Amish made hardwood

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 21, 2007 3:32 pm 
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Location: Antioch, CA. 94509
When installing a solid over a concrete slab, some form of vapor barrier MUST be used. NOFMA recommends some and there are even more. Your flooring contractor/installer did not use a vapor/moisture barrier/diffuser and that's the root of your flooring problems. Nothing will salvage this installation except for complete removal of the flooring and then the installation of a proper moisture barrier and subfloor. Then the contractor can re-install the flooring.


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Amish made hardwood

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 22, 2007 9:54 am 
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Location: Austin
AustinFloorguy wrote:
Ya, he got "hop'n mad"

You have caught him cutting corners.

a 5" wide board, can swell considerably, with just a 3% gain in moisture content. 2" in 10 feet(or 20 rows)


This sounds(won't know for sure, without being there myself) like a total installation related failure.




Ken, I did say 2 inches in 10 feet, not 2 feet in 10 feet.

Go to the picture Gallery. I posted 4 pictures of a 5" x ¾" Hickory, that gained dimensions, that I measured more then 3½" in 10 feet gain(in the small bedrooms.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2007 3:16 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 19, 2004 6:02 pm
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Location: Florida
Terri wrote:
Thank you all for your responses!
-I will have my husband check his measurements for sq. ft.
-It is a re-model of a barn that my parents were living in 1/4 for 20+ years. The remaining was re-modeled with the woodflooring in question in the great room. The concrete was there before they purchased in 1975.
-The contractor said he put a meter on the boards and the reading was good.
-He did not get a meter reading on the concrete, he said he could tell by laying his hand on it that there was no moisture problem. He did not seal the concrete in any way. The only moisture barrier he said he used was the black roofing paper.
-The buckling was not over the entire floor. I would say about 1/3 of the room had some, ranging from slight to severe. The most severe (raised about 3") he had left no expansion room. He came back and fixed that.
-The plywood was down for probably a couple of months. The home was closed up when flooring was brought in to acclimate.
The contractor is asking my mother what she wants him to do. She has no idea what to tell him. She is holding his last check, which makes him very unhappy (the flooring is not the only issue). He got hoppin' mad when I questioned him about expansion space, moisture content, moisture barrier, ect. (all information I gained from your site).
I guess he should first go back and cut the proper expansion space.
A couple ideas that have been suggested are 1)to branch off of the ductwork under the floor so there is heat & ac blowing underneath, 2)to cut 2" vents in the floor to allow movement of air. Are either of these good attempts to try to alleviate moisture that may be trapped under the floor?
Again, thank you for your guidance. You have provided us with a source if information when we didn't know where to turn. Terri


Terri,
If there is no vapor barrier,,,,,,,,,, this floor is a failure. That slab probobly has no Vapor barrier under it (BARN)..
Everybody posted this same fact... This floor is a failure. It cannot be saved. The floor must be pulled up, a moisture barrier (PER NOFMA standards) applied to the concrete surface, then the flooring Re-Installed.
There is no way this floor will succeed any other way.
It is what it is and it is a failed installation.

_________________
Ray Darrah
Hardwood Floor Inspections. Laminate & Tile Floors


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