I am installing a hardwood floor for the first time with the help of a friend who has done this couple of times. The wood I selected is 3/4" thick 3" wide maple. After two weeks of acclimation, we started the install in my living room, which is a square room with a wide sliding glass door facing the yard.

When we got to the door, my friend suggested that we just cut the wood so that it flushes against the door frame, as shown in the picture below.
https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=74E039AE85BDFB7C!230&authkey=!AOb7NAdU89nqb2g

I have been doing quite a bit reading on various forums, manuals, etc, and the majority of them recommend to leave a gap (1/4") and install an end-cap molding. There are also one or two suggestions that are inline with my friend's approach. What is the right (or better) approach? Should I be concerned about the expansion/shrinkage since it is summer now, and the wood might shrink more during the winter (I live in Wisconsin).

We are leaving 3/4" gaps along the two walls facing the tongue and grove, 1/4" gap opposite from the sliding door.

Thanks,
Hao

If it was me, in that case I would put a header up against the door. I would rip it down to 2 1/4" and cut it the length of the door. If the door is not square with your floor then you can put a small angle on all the boards that you but up against the header. Just imagine the tile in this pic is the door

http://www.nahfloors.com/wp-content/upl ... 010106.jpg

The down leg on most endcaps is 5/8- 3/4 wide.

1/4 is not going to be near enough to get an endcap in there.
Endcaps are about 1½" wide.


I always use an endcap / carpet transition at sliders.

We just install a 5 / 16th" reducer over the gap. We glue it on the back side so it's not attached to the floor. I have also heard of people using cork for gaps, especially in places where there typically isn't trim, like around a post. The cork is cut to fit into the gap, and it stains the same color as the floor.