Amish made hardwood

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 Post subject: hardwood refinishing help asap
PostPosted: Fri Jul 21, 2006 8:03 am 
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How much chatter and how many swirls should be O.K. Being a virgo I tend to want it done right and am very tough( I have been told). But I believe in doing a job correctly. Thats why I paid a pro!

Down to the wire now, 1200sq feet and lots of CHATTER ( I think thats what it is called) looks wavey but feels flat? And lots of swirl marks.
Do I settle and live with it or is there a fix, that does not require total sanding again. This was a 4 day job that has been a month on the 26th.

How do I hire a pro to come in and make the call on weather the job was done corectly, here in Texas?

Guess I could live with it but should I? Am I expecting too much? Is there a fine line as I know all wood has charater, thats the beauty. It is red oak nail down ant. brown stain 3 coats water base Bona

Thanks to all who care.


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Amish made hardwood

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 29, 2006 7:43 pm 
NONE . The finish will highlight them . you will need to drum the floor again to remove the chatter , that is the machine that caused it , and the one that will remove it .


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 30, 2006 9:24 am 
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Flooring Guy wrote:
NONE . The finish will highlight them . you will need to drum the floor again to remove the chatter , that is the machine that caused it , and the one that will remove it .


Thank you for your time. Up-date, sence the company I hired did NO supervision and I was forced to oversee the project I have learned a few thing! Woodguys are still fixing places that were sealed over "gunk" in the office where the finish pealed. My husband removed the pocket door (GUY TOLD US THE WALL HAD TO COME OUT TO GET THE DOOR OFF IN ORDER TO TRIM, THRESHOLD CHANGED WITH THE INSTALL OF NAIL DOWN FLOORING) three screws did the trick and than the track lowers and door swings out. Had to re-do threshold.

As for the landing and great room (swirls and chatter) they sanded to the bare floor and started over. Leads to my next ?. They took it upon themselves to remove a board in my existing nail down floor that had a fill problem from the first sanding and glue a SHORT BOARD IN ITS PLACE, there are no shorts in the whole house. STICKS OUT LIKE A SORE THUMB. You know it is right in the path and not somewhere I can put something over it. CAN THE JOB BE CORRECTED PERHAPS BY TAKING THE WHOLE BOARD UP AND NOT JUST CUTTING A 12 INCH SECTION? OR DO I LEAVE IT ALONE AS THEY WENT AHEAD AND PUT 1ST COAT OF TRAFFIC ON THE FLOORS? i HAVE LOST SLEEP! :(


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 30, 2006 10:50 am 
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First, I am so sorry that you are going through this. I hate to say it, but I almost hope this is a "you get what you pay for" scenario-- a valuable lesson. You are paying to have the floors look the way you envision, whether stock or not, and such expectations should have been made clear from the get-go. I am coming from a custom installation/finishing perspective, and it simply sounds as if they are a "wham-bam-slap-it-down" company??

This being said and based on the background information you mentioned, I would have to say that the piece could be taken up and replaced larger than 12", though without seeing the situation I can't be sure this wouldn't open up a whole new slew of issues. I didn't understand if this was their error and what these other floors even are, but if it was their fault it needed replacing to begin with they should do it so you can't tell anything changed in this existing area. Now that the traffic is on they may be able to re-do it if they pre-finish the replacement boards and drop them in, then do maybe a whole top-coat? I would also try to talk the person you chose to hire if he is sending "labor" over without being there personally.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 30, 2006 2:14 pm 
Make them replace it . 12 " is the smallest length you can use , there is no reason why they can't put a larger board in there for you . I can tell they are hacks kell by the way she described the sanding . you are going to have to look at this floor a long time , make them do it right .


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 31, 2006 7:47 am 
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[quote="Flooring Guy"]Make them replace it . 12 " is the smallest length you can use , there is no reason why they can't put a larger board in there for you . I can tell they are hacks kell by the way she described the sanding . you are going to have to look at this floor a long time , make them do it right .[/quote

This was a very expencive project, $6200.00 and the wood guy is very nice and I am a forgiving person but as I stated the company I hired simply run a store front and do not know the business, or so it would seem. This is excisting nail down red-oak. Thanks you all have given me reliefe by just listening, thanks


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 31, 2006 3:42 pm 
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I don't know how many square feet that is for but it doesn't matter anyhow, as you payed for something you didn't get. I wouldn't let them leave until it is as they promised. Let us know how it goes and good luck!

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 03, 2006 10:50 pm 
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Can you please explain again what chatter is? Is it when you see wood grain too much when some areas seem lower than others? It looks like I might have the same problem with my new finish. I was wondering if this is normal. They are claiming that since I went from oil-based poly to water-based, they had to sand really deep and exposed softer wood, and that's what's causing it. They are saying, "it's just wood grain, not our fault".
Does it make sense? Will it only make things worse if they resand?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 04, 2006 3:07 am 
chatter is caused by loose sanding paper on the drum , or the drum may need to be adjusted .


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 04, 2006 8:22 am 
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bzem wrote:
Can you please explain again what chatter is? Is it when you see wood grain too much when some areas seem lower than others? It looks like I might have the same problem with my new finish. I was wondering if this is normal. They are claiming that since I went from oil-based poly to water-based, they had to sand really deep and exposed softer wood, and that's what's causing it. They are saying, "it's just wood grain, not our fault".
Does it make sense? Will it only make things worse if they resand?

Hello, When the three top-coats of water base went on the floor looked like (well a girl with long wavey hair!) I went from oil-based to water and that never entered the issues as we discussed the cause. They re-sanded, fired the first guy, and the floor is now much better. Still have other issues but I would suggust to get them to re-do! No wonder people panic when it comes to renovation! Yeck!


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 04, 2006 10:11 am 
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Quote:
they had to sand really deep and exposed softer wood, and that's what's causing it. They are saying, "it's just wood grain, not our fault".
Does it make sense? Will it only make things worse if they resand?

As a flooring installer and finisher for over 25 yrs, I can tell you there is some validity to that statement. However, a good floor sander will be able to sand without very much dish-out or chatter. Chatter is always from the machine. Waves in the floor can be from the machine but the floor itself can contribute to that. If there is a lot of "open grained" wood, like plain sawn red oak, it can be difficult to sand without getting a little dishout. When this happens, the sander needs to hardplate the floors. This helps considerably.
So while what they are telling you may be true, it isn't an excuse for a poor sanding job. Maybe a third opinion professional is needed.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 04, 2006 3:42 pm 
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How do I hire a third opinion professional? Should I just look for another floor company or do I need some kins of an inspector? What is a reasonable price for that?


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 04, 2006 7:18 pm 
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In independant NWFA flooring inspector would probably be your best choice. The reason? If you get an opinion from another flooring contractor, he may say it's a bad sanding job and needs to be redone, only to provide work for himself. An inspection probably starts at about $125.00 and can go up from there. I myself, do inspections but am not "certified", meaning, I haven't attended the classes and obtained the certification. I am licensed and experienced and honest. So I calls 'em as I sees 'em without regard as to whether I can benefit or not.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 04, 2006 9:42 pm 
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$125? You work cheap!! :lol: :lol:

I'm a little more then that, not including seat time and mileage, that is added.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 05, 2006 1:24 pm 
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Floorguy wrote:
$125? You work cheap!! :lol: :lol:

I'm a little more then that, not including seat time and mileage, that is added.


Hi, I am trying to figure how to get pic's posted as I would truly love a third opinion. They have re-done the floors, I thought for the finial time.
This time the stain is again all over the base-boards, heavy in the corners and along the 5 sets of french doors. Makes the job look dirty, and no it is not the wood and the way it took the stain, could have been carefully done, it is beautiful wood. Can live with it, but he tried to put traffic 4th coat over section in dinning room, went to clean up and saw that you can see where he stopped and started and very streeky! Why did he ever go there! There was just one spot that was shinney so I asked him to Buff? He says he will be back on Monday! I am so tired of this, started on the 25th of JUNE
sOMEONE COME TO hOUSTON!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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