JamesTRD wrote:
Alot of things were done on the past that are different today..What I listed was guideline.
under 4 inches only directly to sleepers joist etc.
just like only up to 4" over radiant.
many things have been done and worked and failed. thus guidelines.
Anyone is free to approach anything the way they choose.
I would venture to say that those floors you saw were pine of some sort and usually full to long length.
Not T& G oak plank.
with proper moisture barriers I suppose you can pull it off
I'm sure you have seen a 250-300 year old floor in NJ, some things never change.
The deal is, it is more feasible to put down a subfloor than 2x4's on 8" centers, to maintain the proper nailing schedule. Most screed systems are 12" centers, not close enough to maintain the required 8" schedule.
Ladybird Johnsons(President LBJ wife) old homestead house has 5" 33/32 Pecan on 12" sleepers, over concrete poured in 1911 and no moisture barrier what so ever. The floor is cupped looking at a cross section, but flat on top and been that way for 100 years. I got called in, because they added wood to match it in the dining and kitchen and it cupped immediately. They had resanded and stained/ finished it all and only the new cupped. The new section had moisture barrier, but they allowed the non moisture barrier area to vent over to the new section. They didn't know or realize how the old section was originally done.