I am a first time installer, although I have extensive carpentry skills and knowledge. I am planning to install 3/4" pre-finished hardwood on two entire levels of a four-level split-level home.

I am wondering about the best place to start my installation on the main level, which is roughly 20 X 25. Joists run on the 25' dimension, so floor would be across the 20' dimension.

For starting points, I can either start along the 20' long back wall, which contains a 10' 3-panel window/door, or start from the front wall, which is divided into a kitchen space and a foyer.

Regarding the need to back-install, starting from the rear would only require backing into a refrigerator space, while starting from the front door, would require backing into about a 6X13 foot space in the main part of the kitchen.

Next to the front door, there are also stairs going down, and up, requiring stair nosing perpendicular to the floor boards.

In either case, my REAL concern is how to insure that boards line up after the layout passes around a 9 foot central wall, which separates the galley kitchen from the living room?????

It would seem to me, from my other wood-working experience, that there is a chance that over the course of nailing two separate 9 foot runs of flooring, that they might not line up when the meet.

It also doesn't seem likely that I would have much control over this, since my aim would be to install each board as tight as possible to the next.

I've seen advice regarding this, which calls for striking a chalk line in the next room, in an effort to keep the installation square. But, how is this done? Is there constant measuring against this line as the installation progresses? And, how are adjustments made when tongue and groove boards have a pretty specific fit?

I wish I could attach a drawing, but that doesn't seem to be allowed.

Any help will be appreciated. I am hoping that I am not over-thinking this.

If you have to wrap around and meet the floor back then thats about it. Its a pain in the arse and all you can do is install a few rows then check your control lines, install a bit check your lines rinse and repeat. If you start getting off you will have to figure out where your off and adjust accordingly by putting in small spaces until you are back where you need to be. Ive found metal putty knives to be useful here, you need something uniform and easy to pull out once the boards are nailed. If your starter rows are straight then it should stay that way , if you start to notice a dog leg in your but joints thats a dead giveaway its getting out of square.

I have never had a floor not line up. As long as you keep the rows tight and straight it will work. I just finished an installation where the flor had to wrap around 2 different areas before it met back up and it was right on the money. Chalk lines always are good for reference and control.

Kevin & Jeff,

Thanks for the advice, and vote of confidence. I agree that if the joints are tight, and the dimensions of the pieces are stable, then everything should line up. I'd just hate to get 9 feet of floor down, only to find a 1/4" gap right in the middle of my foyer.

Which leads to the choice of direction to start. Since I can't attach a drawing, here is a link to one: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/4609966/kitchen.pdf

I first thought I would start at the back wall, which is the longest, spanning the entire space. Now I am thinking it might be smarter to start at the front door (lower left of the drawing), and work towards the back. This would insure that I am square against the steps, directly to the left, and have a nice straight row extending from the steps into the kitchen (where it is most noticeable). However, this would require me to back into about a 6X13 foot section in the kitchen, to the right of the front door, I assume with a splined reverse of the installation.

I am not sure that big of a reverse is a good idea, nor am I sure that starting from such a small position (while it gives me good opportunity to square to the steps) is a good way to stay square to the other walls in the distance?

John

you dont have to start off a wall unless you just want to. Starting in the center of the room is pretty common and often preferred. Floors move in the way of least resistance, so what that means is a floor will do the majority of its movement in one direction in relation to the direction of the fastener. A floor cant drive itself tighter but it can pull itself loose. I would consider starting right in the doorway that leads from the foyer into the kitchen.

Really? You mean starting where I thought the two would meet if starting from the back wall, then working in both directions to the front and back walls from a splined joint there? I never would though of that.

I would definitely start off the sliders. And as long as you are straight coming around the back side of the cabinets you should line up.

Sliders?

Not the best drawing, but see: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/4609966/kitchen1.pdf

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