Amish made hardwood

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 Post subject: Hardwood layout
PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 1:40 am 
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I'm thinking of installing a glue down hardwood floor myself but I had a few questions about the layout. The floor will be installed in a living room, hallway and three bedrooms. I plan to start in the living room parallel to the longest wall and continue following the hallway parallel to its longest wall. Once you get into the hallway and into the bedrooms are you supposed to follow what you did in the hallway and work your way into the bedroom towards the outside wall, or do you stop and work from the walls into the bedroom towards the hallway and then use some kind of transition piece by the door. Also do you do if what you started in the living room does not line up suare to the walls in the bedroom? Thanks.


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Amish made hardwood

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 2:34 am 
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I think your plan would be the way I would do this: The longest wall in the living room is parallel to the length of the hallway. Both should be laid with wood running the length of these rooms.

If you are continuing wood into other rooms. I would not use a header or transition in the doorways. Unless you were changing color or species.

As to if the rooms aren't square to the hall and living room. They never are. What you can do is fudge a bit as you enter each room you will create a new reference line that is not too different from the boards you will lay flowing into a room. But might be more closely squared to the walls in the new room.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2008 11:12 am 
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Barquios, when you say "fudge", do you mean that right inside the doorway you'd angle the boards slightly so as to make them slightly out of parallel with the one next to it and therby make them more parallel with the walls in the bedroom?

Won't that leave noticeable gaps in the install inside the doorway?


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2008 11:54 am 
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If the floor you are installing is a narrow strip floor this will not be a problem. If the floor you are installing is a wider floor or an engineered plank the gaping might be a bit harder to avoid by "bending" the layout. Though you still should be able to. Keep the layout well fit in the doorway and then fudge as you work back down the hall. I would bridge the "bend" point in the next row with a long strip to cover the bend. This will hide the effect.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2008 12:49 pm 
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In my case the hallway already has hardwood and I am adding wood to the bedroom. So I cannot back down the hallway and fudge there. What would you recommend? Is a transition strip my only choice here?


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2008 10:32 pm 
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Your layout in the hall should already be "square" and the other side of the wall should be on the same alignment. Here is what I usually do working into a room:

1. Lay the flooring until you reach the first board that will fall into the room. This one is dri-fit. (just laid in place)

2. Take a 6' straight edge or a extremely straight board and see how the near wall is aligned to the layout. Extend this line if necessary to visualize or preferably for longer rooms.

3. Measure to the opposite wall and see how it will fit to the far wall.

4. Adjust within reason. Usually, splitting the difference of the variance will make both walls happy. Remember if you are using an engineered plank this amount you can "fudge" is limited.

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