Hi folks,

I've looked around the forum for layout advice but haven't found anything applicable. I would like to install 3.5" wide 3/4" solid oak flooring in my hallway upstairs. Sub floor is solid 3/4" plywood glued and nailed over 2x10 joists. Floor joists run in various directions in sections over the length of the hallway so direction of floor joists doesn't really factor into the equation. I have no idea how to lay this out in the hall way that zig zags with 90 and 45 degree turns. I can attach the floor plan if someone can tell me how to do it.

The hall runs perpendicular to the stairs at the top of the stairs (goes a little left and mostly to the right). Beyond the hallway at the top of the stairs it makes a 90 degree right turn, runs a bit, then makes a 45 degree right turn, runs a bit, then makes a 90 degree left turn and runs about 20ft to the end. I will not run the hardwood into any of the rooms off the hallway.

I don’t know if I should start at the top of the stairs with strips parallel to the stair treads and continue the flooring in that orientation throughout the entire hall. That would mean the flooring in the far 20ft would be at a 45 degree to the walls. I don’t think it would look right having it on the diagonal over that long stretch of hall. Another option might be to start at the top of the stairs with strips parallel to the stair treads, continue with that orientation through the 90 degree right turn and the 45 degree right turn, then end that pattern at the final 90 degree left turn. Lay the last stretch of the hallway with the strips perpendicular to the hallway run. That would make the strips meet perpendicular to each other at the last 90 degree turn but would still leave the strips at a 45 to the walls in the one section. Perhaps there is another best option. I'm looking for advice on the best layout. This is probably not making much sense without seeing the floor layout. thanks

-Dave

Still haven't figured out how to attache the floor plan.

Scub:

All sorts of ways, but some aren't tech inclined. If you have a Facebook page and upload the layout pic I can attach it here, providing you offer your Facebook address...and there aren't hundreds of photos to sift through.

No, don't have a Facebook page.

You can also go over to Flickr ...post your pictures on Flickr. Cut and paste the URL over here.

I swear we had a zig-zag hallway thread not to long ago.

If there was I couldn't find it.

OK, here is the floor plan if this works http://www.flickr.com/photos/83726742@N03/7665876226/in/photostream

start parallel to the stair case on the the nosing labeled "rail"....the flooring will proceed on an angle donw one portion f the hall...but be strait throughout the rest..

If I run parallel to the rail and continue the pattern it will be at and angle to the walls down the long end of the hall that ends in front of the washer/dryer. Unless a change direction in the 90 degree turn under the PDS in which case I would probably make the final run parallel to the walls.

That's what I would do....Parallel to the rail, then change direction at the long hall, from corner to corner.

OK, I am going to start parallel to both "rails" changing direction at the appropriate angle to follow the rails. The strips will maintain direction through each 90 degree turn. Like this http://www.flickr.com/photos/83726742@N ... hotostream.

I'm going top put in Bruce pre-finished Fulton strip square edge 3/4" natural Red Oak.

The staircase is brand new with new 3/4" landing tread which continues across the top of the stairs, railing, and balusters. However the floor side of the landing tread is square edge, no TorG. Oops. The balusters are too close to the edge to run the router down in place. However, at least I should be able to put a groove in the tread at the top of the stairs for the new floor behind. I'm thinking the rest of the landing joint to the strips along the railing will not be critical since it doesn't get traffic. Does this sound reasonable? Sub-floor is solid 3/4" plywood.

There's nothing special in the Bruce install instructions regarding the square edge. Is there anything special to watch out for with the pre-finished square edge to make this job come out good?

I've never seen a direction change in a spot like that before, but that doesn't rule it out. You would definitely have to start the change at the angle and work both ways the way I look at it. That way there are no surprises when, for example, you finish the first area (long area off the baluster) and go to run the second area.

Very difficult to describe. There will be slightly different dimensions from one area to another and the boards will not align as well. Considering it's also a Bruce product opposed to something milled very well you'll have very slight differences (not noticeable until you try to match the angles up) in board width...and not as straight that will affect the alignment.

Make any sense?

And definitely spline (use slip tongue) at the transition, otherwise you'll have a good squeaky spot.

I hope the Bruce is "milled very well"- the main reason I went with it was for the square edge which I expect is milled at fairly tight tolerances to make it work well. I’ve checked a couple of samples from one box and so far the fit looks good.

I'm thinking once I have the first strip in each section along the landing tread aligned at the but joint the remaining strips should align at the end joints OK. But perhaps the concern is if the mitered edges aren't perfect the joint alignment section to section will be off by the time I get to the last strip at the transition.

The other possibility if board alignment is going to be tricky is to put 1 strip across the hall at the transition so all the miter end cuts are up against a straight edge and the alignment between sections doesn't matter. I already have a precedent for that on the first floor where the foyer runs into the family room at the rear of the house. The strips in the family room are run perpendicular to the front of the house. The transition area is also at an angle to each section and I have 1 strip between sections.

I'm also wondering, since a lot of the job is the 40" wide hall if it makes sense to cull out the +40" pieces from all the boxes and use those in the sections with the strips running parallel to the rails. That's assuming there is also a good distribution of sizes in the 24-40" range.