Can anyone suggest a preventive measure to mitigate the expensive nightmare of hardwood replacement from potential water damage ? After reading the plight of many installers here with regard to demo of glued-down subfloors and planks, is there a "trick" to planning for a potential heartache? I'm preparing for "tribulation".

It seems that these new glues are impervious to release from prybars and other tools. Sure, the wood can be cut out with a skillsaw, which is what we did the first time, but the newer adhesives are apparently tougher than the old. If this should happen to me (heaven forbid), like a broken pipe or flood, what lies ahead? Will my glued-to-MVP subfloor over concrete end up coming up with the glued and nailed planks? Could I even end up with concrete coming up with the wood sandwich?

What have you pros done with regard to repairs in these circumstances? I presume someone out there has had to face water damaged sections of flooring which don't involve a total demo.

I don't know of any alternatives when you have a slab unless you built it up with a new plywood subfloor, or use a floating application.

You must be like me and fret too much over the unknowns .

Jerry's right. Unless you utilize a floating system, IF you have major water damage, removal can be difficult. One can take precautions against future leaks by replacing poor rubber water supply lines with braided steel water lines. Repair or replace supply valves as needed. Slow, unseen leaks are usually the cause of most wood floor water damage. If you have a water line the the refrigerator, get rid of the cheap, thin 1/4" plastic tubing and replace with coiled copper tubing or the braided steel. Same for the dishwasher. In my experience, most water damage comes from the water lines leaking from the refrigerator and dishwasher. Sometimes, the hoses to the clothes washer burst and leak. It's best to turn those valves off if you leave town for for a few days or more. As far as spills, wipe them up when you see them and those are usually not a problem. There are also plastic drain pans that my builders sometimes install under appliances. You can have those pans to channel the water toward the front of the appliance so you can see when and if they leak. Then keep up on the finish. Don't allow the finish to get so worn that you have no more moisture and dirt protection. Recoat periodically. And never wet mop the floors. That's about the best anyone can do.

Thanks, guys. I'm still curious, though, about how a repair can be done without major loss of subfloor/and or hardwood, and can or will the concrete come up with these tenacious glues like Best with removal?

Also, what kind of silicone do you apply outside and inside around wood sills before the floor is installed? I saw rainwater coming between the wood sills and slab during the last rain.

Gary, are you sure you don't want to spend a couple of weeks in Westlake Village, free room and board? The house is vacant! Two acres to roam....next to a golf course.

It's tempting. However, right now, I am involved in a large project that could take a month or more to complete. But after that, I might be available.

Well now that's a good question. I would not do anything inside until you found the source on the exterior. Can you duplicate the seepage with a hose or something. Using a moisture meter is good for tracking leaks down. If you use a hose, start at the bottom and slowly work your way up.

Getting that fixed is extremely important. How to fix it depends on how the water is getting in and what siding materials you have on the house.