I will be stapling 3/4" oak using a reconditioned Bostitch MIIIFS bought on ebay. For the boards close to the wall, I plan on hand nailing. The only spiral shank nails I can find locally are galvanized siding nails with larger heads.

At the big box stores (Lowes & Home Depot), I can find 8d 2" hardwood finish nails and 8d flooring cut nails (more expensive). My subfloor is 3/4" plywood on top of 5/8" OSB, so a 2" nail is not going to reach the joist when face nailing.

The flooring cut nails indicate not to use them where rust is a concern. Will the 8d 2" hardwood finish nails provide sufficient holding power without going into a joist?

Just rent a finish nailer that takes 15 to 16 ga nails ..

Two inch nails have been the industry standard as long as I can remember. If the sub-floor is adequate for installation, not need to dwell on securing the floor to the joist system. If the sub-floor is Not adequate, longer nails are not the solution

zink88

What did you do to secure the first and last row and how did it work out?

Would you do something different next time?

Most of us pros today use pneumatic finish nailers to nail where the floor machine nailer cannot. Personally, I prefer nailers that use 15 gauge nails. Others say 16 gauge works as well. I like and prefer the DA style of finish nail made by Senco. Bostitch has a good one as well but it can be harder to find. There are many good brands of finish nailers that are less money today than they were years ago. Before using pneumatic nailers, I did hand nail and used #8 bright finish nails. In a good subfloor, they worked fine. A spiral shank nail will give more grip but it is probably not needed. The standards for nails were developed back when some or most floors were still hand nailed. When hand nailing an entire floor, I can see where special flooring nails are needed. But when hand nailing areas that cannot be reached with a nailing machine ( usually first and last courses ), #8 bright finish nails are fine.

Thanks for the info, Gary!

Just so happens I have a 16 gauge air nailer and some 1 1/2" and 2 1/2" nails for it. However it's a straight nailer. So this may work for the face nailing but could I also use it for the tongue nailing of the first row? Would the nails I have do it or should I get some 2"?

you're right Gary . 16 ga just seem to be a tad weak .

But a 18ga has a small hole when you face nail. So when we do pre-finish the first and last rows we use a 18ga. But if we have to shot into the tongs we do use a 15 ga nail. We just like the 18 ga to face nail just because of the hole size. More easier to fill.
Jeff

I have a few 18 Ga guns H.F. I use them for special occasions .
Not the last board on a 3/4 "

I wouldnt trust an 18 gauge nail for anything more than securing 1/4 round

Those are my special occasions . And sometimes if i'm a 1/2 " or so short of the wall i will apply some resin glue to the back of the full board and shoot a nail in the back , and install it in one piece . Keeping the butt back at least 8 " of course .

Yeah, I think we've all done that before. When the last space to the wall is 3&1/2" or so, and you're laying 2&1/4" strip. Sometimes, just gluing your rips to the last full piece makes a nicer job.

Ya thats what we do as well, especially with prefinished, dang rips invariably split if ya try to nail through them.