I am getting ready to install 3/4 pre finished oak in a 2nd floor hall. There is a small railing, about a foot wide and newel post at the top of the stairs that sits on an oak base plate. I would have considered butting up to this, but the edges are rounded over, so I removed it. I installed prefinished tread caps with factory installed scotia molding that has a matching 5-1/4 landing tread. My first thought was to 45 the landing tread around, but I don't have enough to do that and not enough time to have another piece shipped to me. The other issue is the stringer sticks out so even if I mitered the pre finished landing tread there would be too much overhang over the step below and an awkward gap. Can I replace the base with oak stock and leave the edges square? Would I be able to miter it to the landing tread or but the landing tread into it? I would love to see photos of what it should look like with the hardwood floors. I would attach photos of my situation but I can't figure that out either. Thanks.

If you can't insert a picture how about inserting a link to an image?
Having trouble visualizing you situation.

Does anybody know how to post pics from an iPad?

I think I got this photo thing figured out. Do you think it would look ok to but up to the base plate on both sides if I replace it with one the is square edged? One side with the prefinished 5-1/4 nosing, the other with the flooring? I can replace the plate with one stained to match the floor or the current color. Again, I do not have enough of the pre finished with the attached scotia molding to miter around the corner. And if I did, the over hang created by the nose would not leave enough plate for the newel post so the post would be partially on the plate and partially on the flooring.

http://rs1266.pbsrc.com/albums/jj532/Ra ... .jpeg~c100

http://rs1266.pbsrc.com/albums/jj532/Ra ... .jpeg~c100

Is the railing base plate the same thickness as your new flooring? Will the new flooring be installed parallel or perpendicular to the stair nosing (landing tread)? How wide are your new flooring boards?
If the railing base plate and flooring are the same thickness how about installing the flooring under the railing instead of the base plate. You could do a square butt between the flooring that runs under the railing and the stair nosing and round over the flooring that is near the wall and extends forward of the stair nosing or apply a rounded over end cap here.
You could also have left the original base plate and cut a cove on the end of the stair nosing that would match the rounded profile of the base plate....this would give a nice tight joint. You could square off the edges of the base plate that the new flooring would butt to or put coves on the flooring that would match the base plate profile.

The flooring is the same thickness as the base plate and will run parallel to the stair nosing. The flooring is 2-1/4 strip. I removed the rail and base and can replace the current base plate with one that is square edged and but everything up tight eliminating trying to cove the flooring. I do like the idea of eliminating the base plate all together and running the flooring underneath the newel post and capping the flooring where it ends at the stringer. I am just trying to figure out what would look best and intentional rather than an after thought or oops since the rail and base have been removed.

If the base plate is replaced with flooring it will look like its been that way forever and not installed after the base plate was done. Just my opinion. If you were building the house you would put down the floor and then go up from there, i.e. baseboards, door frame trim, hand/stair rails, etc.