Hello all, I've done a search of the group and and have not been able to find the answer to my exact question.

We have hydronic radiant floor heat; both in slab and under floor (with aluminum plates). On the slab we are using a Strand woven Bamboo that can be floated (since the manufacturer of my flooring does not have a web site this one is similar [http://www.hilobamboo.com/wst_page2.html]. As quoted from our manufacturer's instructions:
"For a successful floating installation the floor must be extremely flat (no more than ¼” of deflection over 12 feet) care must be taken to ensure the floor is within this standard. As stated above it is important to secure a starter row with wedges, blind nailing or by end-gluing the first row. Apply a small bead of good quality carpenter’s glue such as Titebond II or Titebond III above the tongue on each board. Wipe the excess glue away with a damp cloth if it is squeezed up through the joint, do not let the glue set on the boards. Secure the rows with straps or blue tape that is designed not to leave any sticky residue or interfere with the finish. Test your tape for several hours on a board to ensure that it is easy to remove and that it will not affect the finish."

My first question is if Tightbond II or III (or similar) is "compatible" with radiant heat. In other words, will the glue hold up? The flooring manufacturer is no help here.

We are also going to need an underlayment/vapor barrier over the slab and VB over the suspended wood floor (for engineered flooring) and while I have read that there is minimal R value with most underlays, I wonder if they too will "hold up" or "off gas" with the heat?

The heat to the floor will never exceed 85F.

Suggestions?

Bart

I would use titebond II glue. As I read your post the manufacturer say it should be problem free.

And I would use a 3-in-1 combo underlayment and vapor barrier. This is a very common underlayment, and many if not most floating floors are compatible with your substrate and radiant heat system.