I am installing 3/4" White oak unfinished and was wondering if I should glue my first and last couple of rows with a urethane adhesive and top nail just under what the base molding covers. I have heard that gluing and nailing the first and last rows will add strength and help prevent them from squeaking and I can avoid visible top nailing (except under the base molding). I was concerned about gluing both ends and running into problems with expansion. Will I run into problems if I glue both ends of a large living room? Thanks for any help.

Gluing the starter rows, as well as the last rows, will not cause any problem with expansion. I recommend PL urethane adhesive.
That said, I usually don't glue the starter rows. I top nail where the base covers & toenail with a 16 ga. finish nailer.

Good topic on gluing. It's almost been six years since I handled nail down floors on a continual basis. I recall some doing it but never trusted the floor staying intact with the subfloor without nailing. Anybody having any concerns or seen problems associate with gluing only? Why the sudden change from face nailing besides the appearance? Are these adhesives really that good?

Long term effects with expansion and contraction?

Is the NWFA endorsing it? Wait, I'm a member. Maybe I should look through the latest manual?

IMHO, I don't see why someone would glue the starter rows, when you can cover topnailing the 1st row with base, and toenail proceeding rows . Now on the last few rows, depending on widths, usually I'm just gluing 1 or 2 rows, ( PL in a ziz zag pattern ), then topnailing last row with base covering.
Myself...I dont feel comfortable with "just gluing" much more than that ,( without nailing also). With the new addition of the Crain Close to Wall Staple Tool, it will limit if not eliminate the need for any gluing last rows on a naildown. Ofcoarse a DIY probably wont be buying the Crain.

Really never liked face nailing pre-finished. Depending on the product, it's darn near impossible to make it invisible. And if you do manage to make it invisible, it's temporary.

As far as gluing and nailing long term expansion effects... There are more and more manufacturers that specify both on wider products. You dont get the expansion from a 7" width as you do a floor with 2 1/2" widths. So they must feel comfortable on the wider planks. Ofcoarse I think their reasoning for gluing and nailing is cupping related, and a more solid installation. I dont see any reasoning for both on narrower widths.

IMHHO , I'm not sure if this is one of them...But I run accross issues that the NWFA needs to update.

We glue and nail the last 2-3 boards as well, but not the starters since it isn't necessary. The top nails of the starter row will be covered by trim. We use a slightly different method of gluing do to satisfy my paranoia. We use v-lok for all main floor installations and since I don't want to defeat its purpose by staying short of the wall with it, my guys cut narrow strips off it about 1/4 to 1/2 inch wide running out from the wall about every 6-10 inches and apply the glue along these spaces. My thought is that the glue will spread out and effectively re-seal the subfloor from the hardwood.

Must be not enough coffee in system yet, I no comprende last two posts

Heres a good strong cuppa for you.

Sorry to dig up a very old thread, but I was wondering if someone could answer a question for me regarding the gluing of the last two or three rows. I'm a DIY'er, and recently put a 20'x25' addition on our house in order to accommodate a new child. While doing this, I tore all the carpet out of the upper level of the house, and am about 70% finished installing 1000 sq ft gunstock ash 3/4" hardwood flooring. Its going very well, looks great. The only place where I get frustrated is at the last 2 or 3 rows, where my finishing nailer can't squeeze in far enough, or angle enough to properly drive the nail in. So, I end up with a bit of a gap between boards for various extremely frustrating reasons.

My question is this, if I decide just to glue the last 2 or 3 rows, do I need to cut the paper underlay out that I put down so that the wood will adhere to the floor? I've got two long hallways left to do, where the gap due to the above limitations will be hard to hide.

Thanks.

Yes of course, cut out the paper, I leave a small amount where the T&G engage though, otherwise if you cut it net it will be difficult to engage. You need a board puller as well to pull the planks in tight.