Getting readyto start the second phase of a large hardwood job. the upstairs was on wood subfloor, the downstairs, (and majority of the floor) is on slab. What I'm wondering is, 1) what to use to "block" my starter rows with, 2)With a large amount of direction changes, how do you go about working backwards with gluedown?
I can count on two fingers the number of large gluedowns I've done on concrete, and none with the "new" urethane's. I've tried stay nailing my blocks with concrete nails, but most blow out, so I thinking I need to drill and fasten. I'm thinking 1" aluminum drives with an 1/8 bit in a hammer drill? The tapcons I've seen locally look big enough to hold on a truck bumper, but thats all that are availible.
The direction change's seem best handled by routing off the tongue on the "transition" boards. Is this the "way'. It's a lot of footage to be working backwards, so I'm looking for a solution. Any help appreciated. The product is a 5" hickory hand scraped, so ultra precise fit isn't as critical as it would be with some products. Thanks all

The way I do it is I start about 3 ' off my longest straight wall and chalk my line. I install my gluedowns with the tongue facing me with my back to the wall (opposite way of a nail down) The logic behind this is your less likely to scoop up glue and prevent the T&G from engaging well. I use cutoffs of the flooring as backer blocks or sometimes I've gotten 1x3 pine boards and nailed those down with concrete nails. The nails can spall the concrete. I've also duct taped my backer boards down. Screwing them down with tapcons would probably work great but I've never tried it. Seemed like too much work and my method works for me. When reversing direction, I just keep the T&G going the same and try not to scoop glue. Never had a problem. I think most installers do it this way. I've got a cool tapping block from Tarkett that is for gluedown longstrip. It's 16" long with a handle on top and it works well for all types of gluedown tapping situations. If using a urethane adhesive, be sure to have lots of clean rags and thinner; you'll need it.
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You're right Gary--it's a lot of work. I've used them on ocassion especially with Terazzo floor gluedowns where any cut nail will just bend.

Steve:

As long as the tongue and groove fits easily do what Gary says. I'll never forget working with the Tarkloc system from Tarkett the first time when a few reversals were in the job. It was down right horrible--BIG struggle. Since, I went to your solution with their product, but I used a table saw(thin kerf) After cutting off the tongue, run it through(making a groove) to make a snug fit for the tongue to engage.

Be careful out there with urethane glues. Always think where that danged trowel is--or where that bucket is--or the drips that you missed. They almost become invisible and a cleanup nightmare begins. Have to walk a distance to the chop saw from the work area? COVER IT with cardboard or something.

I was lucky the first time I did a urethane job. It was a gluedown site finish, but I had the stuff everywhere. I would have been there for days cleaning that mess up had it been prefinished.

I do as Gary and pop a line out from the wall. I do some figures and that popped line is out no more then 3 feet. I can reach across that.

Your case 30" or 6 rows minus the expansion.

Pick and choose your straightest boards. This is very crucial on the starting rows.

I have a long piece of aluminum channel I lay on my line. I build my row against it, staggering up and taping the crap out of it, keeping the first 3 rows good and tight, before sliding my channel down the line. Even tape the end joints on the first board in the row. They like to move!!

With a glue down, which is 95% of my work, I find it just as easy to go either way. So I start with the groove side on my starting line. So I guess I do install the rest of the room, tongue in.


KEEP A RAG WITH MINERAL SPIRITS CLOSE BY AT ALL TIMES!!!

I have gotten away with using pieces of tack strip on skinny stuff.

Tapcons work. However, you might consider just using the pilot bit for tapcons and some regular fluted concrete nails. Tapcons are expensive.

I am a fan of installing glue downs backwards. Joint squirt is non-existent that way.

Keep in mind that just because a crack is not evident to the clothed eye does not mean they cannot add up to problems on a big job. Wavy wood gets harder and harder to intstall the further you go.

I always carry my bucket of laminate straps when I am gluing to concrete.

You have my #

CHU

Thanks guys, I'm hoping it will go smoothly. The product is American Legacy 5", which is supposed to be Mannington, but their name is nowhere on the box. Also, I've installed about 30 boxes on the upstairs, and not one piece of literature in any of the boxes. Nice. I hope it goes together OK on the gluedown portion, the product seems pretty nice, but I have had to tap most, and persuade a few.
The slab needs a fair amount of prep, and they are whining at the prep costs, so they may be getting someone else to do it. Nice job, but we can't give anything away.

Tack strip is a good idea, that one slipped my mind. I borrowed an aluminum channel from a tile guy for one job: sure made layout a piece of cake. Got lots of blue tape, and tons of lammy straps, so with those, and the trick of Kens to wedge the tough one's, I'm ready. Thanks again guys, and happy New Year.