This is a duplicate of a post I entered in the "what hardwood is best for me" section which I subsequently realized belonged here instead.

Sorry for the long post but here goes -- I know hardwood flooring in a full bath is frowned on but I am going to do it nonetheless. I have a large second floor master bedroom continuous with the bathroom and I want one wood floor throughout. The bathroom is in two parts: a large room with jacuzzi and double sink vanity that flows from the bedroom with no door between them, and a little room after that with shower and toilet. There is a pocket door to close the shower/toilet room but it is never closed. The jacuzzi is used only a few times a year and the bathroom does not seem to get steamed up from showers (there is an exhaust fan and the whole space is so large the moisture is not concentrated).

My questions are what type of installation and wood would be best. Regarding installation, someone told me that if I have to put wood in the bathroom, I should use a floating installation with glue as the glue would serve as a moisture barrier, but I'm a little concerned about glue fumes since I tend to allergies that lead to coughs. If I get a floating floor that permits glueless installation, would it make sense to install it glueless in the bedroom section but then use glue in either or both sections of the bathroom? Or am I just as well off with nail or staple installation and no glue at all?

Also, elsewhere on this board, someone suggested NOT using a moisture barrier in a bathroom so as to permit the moisture to escape downward. In that case, should I install the moisture barrier in the bedroom section but not in one or both of the two bathroom sections?

Regarding wood, I have dark furniture and dark cabinetry in the bathroom so I am looking for a relatively light wood to offer some contrast. However, I want something more interesting than maple or birch. I’m considering BR111 Triangulo engineered in amendoim or tiete chestnut, or BR111 Dolomite engineered in Roman Magnolia (which I read somewhere is actually African doussie). These seem to be the lightest colors in the current BR111 engineered line although they are not as light as I would like and will darken (there is a lot of light in the bathroom with skylights over the jacuzzi). Given the factory finishes, does the wood species make a difference in this installation? Can anyone recommend another light wood in an engineered product?

Thanks so much for any advice or suggestions!

Lots of questions. Here goes.

FACT OF WOOD FLOORING. WOOD AND WATER DON"T MIX! Nothing you can do or use will nullify this fact. However, if you insist on installing REAL wood in a full bathroom, use an engineered wood made by a reputable manufacturer with more than a couple of plies. If you're going to use a pre-finished floor, consider adding a coat or two of additional floor finish to help seal gaps and cracks. NOTE* This is usually not recommended or needed but it MAY help in this particular situation. It will NULLIFY your warranty but being that the flooring is in a full bath, you may have already nullified the warranty.

The SPECIES of wood matters in wet/damp situations. Teak and mesquite are known to be very stable and teak is often used outdoors for boat decks and such. Whether you glue direct to the subfloor or float is irrelevant IMO. If the floor gets wet enough, it will cup, delaminate, separate, OR become damaged in some way. Allow expansion around all the perimeter and caulk that gap with a 100% silicone sealant before you install the trim. If you're planning on adding more finish to the floors, make sure you remove ALL the silicone from the surface of the flooring using mineral spirits prior to prepping for a re-coat. About floating floors. Most today are click style but the ones that aren't use aliphatic resin glues (like Elmer's Wood Glue or Titebond 11) These don't smell bad and most folks have no reactions to them. So don't worry about that. Moisture "barriers" don't exist. We have vapor retarders and these function to retard moisture vapor emitting from BELOW the floors, not above. If using SOLID wood floors, consider sealing the BACKSIDES of the wood (only if nailing down) with a penetrating sealer. This will aid in the wood not absorbing moisture. And lastly, I cannot recommend a particular light colored wood. Perhaps another poster can.