I see lots of mixed info on how much gap space around the perimeter to allow for expansion.
We're installing solid maple in the master bedroom and closet.
How much of a gap do we allow around each wall?
Thanks!

Your probably seeing mixed info due to the grey areas, i.e. type of material, layout, width movement versus end movement, lot's of opinions dependign on situations, etc.

Rule of thumb is the thickness of the material...3/4" Maple -- 3/4" expansion.

One more question...I saw the below online and wanted to know if our room we're doing is 10x14 (bedroom) and 6x10 (closet), should we still do the 3/4" expansion gap? Will the baseboards cover the 3/4" gap? Thanks.

That Quarter inch gap may be too much though....

How much of an expansion gap you will need will largely depend on the size of the room. In smaller rooms, such as the typical bedroom, you could leave as little as a 3/8" gap. On the other hand, if the rooms are large, like by a couple thousand square feet, a 3/4" gap would most likely be recommended. The larger the room, the more space will be needed in the case of expanding hardwood.

True statement in IMO, just hard to calculate taking into account all the variables, ie: species, engineered or solid, type of installation, layout, environment conditions......

Though it's too late, a good quality engineered hardwood can be cut very close to allow for any thinner type baseboard and no need to undercut the drywall.

http://www.uptownfloors.com/products/34 ... neered.htm

Since I haven't taken out the baseboards yet, and I watched a video that shows a space between the dry wall and the floor, if mine has a space (gap), does the expansion amount calculate from the outside wall to the hardwood or drywall to the hardwood (if there's a space between the drywall and the floor).
We are using sold maple (pre-finished) 4" wide.
Thanks!
(live in Colorado/dryish; layout one direct across along the 10-foot side)

10 foot is not a long run, to say the least, but I would still figure on full expansion when solid Maple is in play. That being said....If that floor expands that much over 10', there's major problems. How's that for being wishy washy

If the drywall is off the subfloor over the thickness of the product, you can calculate the drywall thickness as added expansion space. If it's not off the floor when you pull the base...it's not a problem to trim the drywall up with a utility knife.

May I ask another question (besides this one, ha)?
We currently have about 275 sq feet of the hardwood in boxes in a room off the bedroom (acclimating). Should we be acclimating the hardwood in the bedroom we will be working on instead and open the boxes?
Currently there's carpet in the bedroom, which we haven't removed yet.
Should we demo the room now and have the boxes (opened) and acclimating in there now?
We weren't going to start installing them till probably MLK weekend (in a couple of weeks).

Bruce's Storage and Handling instructions state:
"Store in a dry place, being sure to provide at least a four-inch air space under cartons which
are stored upon “on-grade” concrete floors."

What does it mean by four-inch air space under cartons? Does that mean we should leave them in the cartons but not stack them?

Also it states:
"humidity of 35–55% for 14 days prior to and during
installation and until occupied"

We live in a dry environment. Does that mean I need to run my humidifier and for how long as I don't know how to measure the humidity?

(ok, that was more than one question)

You should have the boxes in the room or at least in a part of the house that is on the same level. We usually open the boxes and leave air space between boxes. It is best to use a moisture meter to determine when the floor is acclimated.

As far as humidity goes you should always have a humidifier. They make inexpensive hygrometers(humidity gauge) that you can just set it the room. If the humidifier is attached to the furnace you will be able to adjust accordingly.

Thanks Mickey.
I will start opening the boxes. They are being housed in the next room over on the second floor (loft adjacent to the master bedroom).
I'll pick up a hygrometers at Home Depot as I saw a cheap one online for a few dollars (not digital).
A moisture meter is a bit more ($). Since we're having the wood acclimate for at least a few weeks, I think that will be enough time.
After I get the hygrometers, I'll start running the humidifier to measure the humidity.
Thanks again to all.
We very good at tile work, so this is the first hardwood project for us.
I'm an over-researcher and like to be prepared.
--Jo

Get a thermo-hygrometer at Radio Shack, I have one I leave that will record the history over night, highs and lows. It's only like 10 15 bucks.

I checked at it was $18 at my Radioshack.
I saw Home Depot had a basic, non-digital one for a few dollars.
I don't think I need something that fancy.
I opened the boxes last night (took off the plastic wrapping and such) and ran the humidifier and set it at 40% overnight in the room where the wood is being stored (off the bedroom). But boy was it chilly then this morning. brrrr