[img]So we're finishing up our winter project and FINALLY reading to install the 5/8 Strand Bambo in the great room.

So far I've measure, chalked, measure again (and again), sorted and placed wood, took moisture reading on both the Bamboo and sub floor, undercut the molding and fireplace, measure again, RH has been at 50% for the last 2 weeks and 68F in the house. I think I got everything (at least from what I've read)

I've already done the dinning room (see pic) where I just started at a wall...faced nailed the first board and just went forward.

In the great room I plan on starting kinda in the middle..splinning back towards the fireplace. It's about a 35' foot row thus I'm a little bit worried about getting it perfectly straight. See pic 2 and 3..red line is my starting point

My question is 'how' do I start the first row? Pics below show the red line as a starting point

Since this row will be nailed I'm picturing the board wanting to slide away from the nailer as I strike it. I stared at this last night for about an hour. My plan is to line up 2 or 3 unailed rows behind the first row I'm nailing and to get a bunch of weight on it (like me and my wife standing on it). Is there a better way... or maybe I won't get as much movement as I think?



Any advice would be greatly appreciated

So I tried a couple practice swings with the nailer...it's certainly gonna move. I tried 2 and 3 boards deep to hold it with 2 people and it still moved. Of course the wife is about 90 pounds...so shes not much help there

I'm half tempted to counter sink and face nail the back of the board...then swing. I think I would rather see a fill mark than the board move...and have the starting line that's not straight.

Just screw something down or sacrificial boards if you have plenty. BTW, how are you moisture checking stranded bamboo?

screw some boards down as a straight edge behind your first row.

Good call...I have a few boards that aren't gonna be used...

Moisture test with this guy and a LOT of pressure

Monster,

Always check MC with the pins aligned along with the grain. Never seen this Moisture meter, it reads 2 % (?) which does not seem correct to me. Better check the manual again regarding the hold function and re-measure, this thing did not come with a correction chart for wood species? ( http://doc.diytrade.com/docdvr/1306637/ ... 870032.pdf ). Also check if battery is not low.

MC needs to be both within 2 points in the range recommended in your geographic location.

Use starter strip screwed in (use plenty screws) and nail along at least 5-6 rows. Remove starter strip and place spline with some woodglue in the groove, nail immediately (use a short scrap piece of flooring pushed/sliding over the spline to keep the spline from moving down as you nail it with the nailer) and immediately nail a few extra rows to keep pressure on that side. Now you can continue as you please.

Johannes.

The question is....is how can you get an accurate reading in a piece of bamboo thats been shredded and glued back together? Pin meters do not read moisture content in glue.

Shredded and put back together? Th is board I used to undercut the fireplace. I tested one board from each box. All where 2-3%. Are you talking about the splines I test cut for it?

Stranded bamboo is shredded and glued back together. Tons of glue in it. I don't think pin meters for wood flooring are designed to read through glue. Just my opinion. I keep some stored in my house and compare results with my non-invasive. Plus stacked 2 planks high because mine reads an inch deep.

Monster,

To measure MC in a strand of material ( wood or bamboo) the pins need to remain in the same strand and can not bridge the adhesive/glue line between strands.

Johannes.