Asked about the trim just to see what the options were. My better half mentioned that she'd seen a house with trim next to the same type of balcony and she didn't like it. She would be happier if I need to calk the joint than to put in the trim there... The "customer" is always right and all that kind of thing .

So I'm going to give the scribing of the balcony end a shot.

I tried bevel cuts with the table saw but the positive stop 45 deg resulted in a good deal of error... So I'm going to get a compound miter saw. Will need it for the trim anyway.

Did some quick research and I'm thinking a 10" DeWalt 713 might do the trick. It's got the same arbor size as the Craftsman table saw I have, so chances are I could use the same titanium 90T blade that cuts thru my tiete so nicely. Am I right re: this assumption (10" + 5/8" arbor = the blades are compatible)?

Thanks.

Yes, the blades are compatible. That saw is perfect for cutting up against that balcony, and alot easier for me to explain . It's definetely nice to have the right tool for the job, plus you will find many uses for that saw.

Once you run the planks up to that 1st plank in bdrm 2, I would set a scrap piece up against the balcony plate. Take a square and set it on top of that piece, and up against that balcony plate edge. Take a sharp utility knife and score the top of the plank. While the square is still in place, take a precise measurement from where it hits the balcony plate to the end of the plank that you have prepared for lacing. This measurement will give you the exact point of the scribe point to the plank end at lacing. Use that scrap with the score line to adjust the saw to the exact degree. Adjust the compound to clear the rounded edge of the balcony plate. Take a plank that will be used at the lace in point. Adjoin that plank to the end of another plank ( this is the plank for the balcony cut. Take that measurement that you ,wrote down , and mark the point with a utility knife exactly where the mitre cut will be. Continue the measurement procedure for the lacing. Your home free! Obviously alot easier with the wall opposite the balcony.

On the rounded outside corner your method looks good on paper, but a ton of work for a cut. And after all that work, one wrong move and start over
I use a table saw for those cuts. As you gathered I use a utility knife alot, it leaves a nice clean line to follow, and no splintering. Mark your plank with the knife, including the round corner. Set the saw on a 45 and cut up to the corner, leaving a square hunk of wood at that corner. Set the blade back at a 90 and cut straight at the diameter inside corner knife line, very carefully. This will also automatically give you the clearance to get over that rounded edge, while cutting the round corner. Also if the 45 was not a sharp enough angle on the straight cuts to get over the rounded edge, you can use the table saw and use a side to side motion and cut out the wood on the bottom side of the mitre , so you can clear the rounded balcony plate edge.

Let me know if this all makes sense. I can try to re-word.

Thanks! Can you please clarify the plain scribe and lace + scribe portion? (I'll come to the rounded end later.)

set a scrap piece up against the balcony plate. Take a square and set it on top of that piece, and up against that balcony plate edge. Take a sharp utility knife and score the top of the plank.
--> Not able to visualize this. Where should I score it? Example, are you saying, set the square on the scrap plank (e.g. one leg along the back of the plank, parallel to the length of the plank, the other across the plank), then move it towards the plate until the outside corner of the L intersection touches the plate; then score a line on the plank at the inside edge of the square? Probably much easier to show this visually than to describe it .

While the square is still in place, take a precise measurement from where it hits the balcony plate to the end of the plank that you have prepared for lacing. This measurement will give you the exact point of the scribe point to the plank end at lacing.
--> Got it.

Use that scrap with the score line to adjust the saw to the exact degree.
--> Don't understand how to do this.

Adjust the compound to clear the rounded edge of the balcony plate.
--> Do I just cut a bevel at 45 deg or is there more to it? It went over nicely when I tried out the 45 deg cuts with the table saw.

Take a plank that will be used at the lace in point. Adjoin that plank to the end of another plank ( this is the plank for the balcony cut. Take that measurement that you ,wrote down , and mark the point with a utility knife exactly where the mitre cut will be.
--> You want me to just lay them on the ground (as the plank for balcony cut won't fit there yet). This means I must not have fit the piece at the lacing end yet (thanks!)

Compound mitre saws have 2 adjustments, horizontal & vertical .
Yes you are setting the square on top of the scrap. You dont have to use a square, use anything to scribe the line. What your doing with the square, or any straight edge, is getting a reference line on the plank to dial in the exact horizontal angle of the cut, on the mitre saw. This is giving you the exact horizontal degree of the balcony plate for cutting. This degree should be right around 90, but on the saw you can move the blade to the exact degree by adjusting the saw to cut exactly on your scribe line.
The vertical adjustment will be at 45, to get you over that rounded edge.

You are placing the 2 planks end to end, anywhere on the floor. One end is the lacing end, the other end is the balcony end that needs to be cut.This is when you use that measurement to mark the balcony end for cutting. To cut on the pre-adjusted mitre saw.

Or if this is better for you... Go ahead and install the laced in plank. Then use the straight edge over the scrap at the balcony. Then take your measurement from where the straight edge is hitting that balcony plate to the end of the laced plank.
( The straight edge or square on top of the scrap is showing you exactly where the top of the cut will hit the balcony plate ).

Your wearing me out my friend !

If I may add one more idea, (floorologist, you are doing such a great job of guiding the poster through this project, I didnt want to add my 1.5 cents).
Sometimes when having to fit at two ends in awkward conditions, I have found it better to (if the run is long enough to allow) fit the two ends then re-cut a third piece to connect the two. A simple (but accurate) 90 degree cut, and a new groove milled into the end of the cut, a quick bevel and touch up to the finish, and one line is done.
This doesnt always work, but it has saved me a lot of time on some jobs.

Thanks. Floorologist, I finally understood what you were saying with the scribing at the balcony end to get the degrees for the horizontal cut... After I mentioned the situation, I discovered that the line was going in at 90 deg to the balcony edge (don't ask me how!). So it was no longer an issue in my mind and I couldn't figure out what the scribing would do... Duh . Just in case it becomes necessary to do a non-90, now I know.

I think I'm set for that section now, will let you know how it goes.

Re: the plank that needs to be cut to fit the rounded corner(s) of the plate:

Mark your plank with the knife, including the round corner. Set the saw on a 45 and cut up to the corner, leaving a square hunk of wood at that corner. Set the blade back at a 90 and cut straight at the diameter inside corner knife line, very carefully. This will also automatically give you the clearance to get over that rounded edge, while cutting the round corner.
--> Do you move the piece in an arc through the table saw? Wouldn't that kick back or bind or something?

Thanks again.

No, Avoid binding on a table saw, DANGEROUS.

You are notching( or cutting the thickness of the blade) up to the scribe line head on , with the blade at 90 degrees to the diameter scribe line on the plank. ( Just cutting blade thickness chunks of wood up to the scribe line).

Dennis, thanks for the tip.

What do I need to mill a groove into the cut?

Also, curious if there is something that creates a groove into a plank that is already nailed in (into the edge that is visible?

Thanks.

I tried

Floorologist,

Take a look at a new pic I drew: http://www.hardwoodflooringtalk.com/gal ... m=13&pos=5.

Is this what you were trying to get across? (I understood the part with the lacing opposite the scribe fit + 45 bevel already so didn't draw that).

Let me know if it's not OK.

Actually looking at it one more time, maybe step 6 before 5 would make it much easier to complete 7.

Thanks.

That's it.

Thanks... Probably would have taken you guys a couple of minutes to do it . Hopefully you can point the next person to the pics, at least.

(I have a vague feeling step 5 should be done at the end to avoid making the corner block flimsy and prone to breaking off. If so I can update the pic.)

Another related problem:

The top stair nosing will be hemmed (on both sides) by these annoying curved balcony plates.

In addition, there are no shims under the plate there and the insulayment + plank will be higher than the plate by around 1/8".

Do I dare ask for any suggestions for this one?

Thanks.

In reference to you question about availability of a device to groove the end of a board already in place.
Two methods come to mind.
1: using a buiscut joiner would work, to a degree with some fiddling.
2: there are router bits (slot cutters) with no bearing attached below the cutter that also would work.

Both of these methods require some concessions. It is better to groove the ends prior to install.

Thought I'd give a quick update:

The lacing went off very nicely. Ended up placing thin strips of asphalt felt paper to space out 4 rows leading up to the bedroom 2 doorway. At the doorway the first row's angle was just a bit off so I had to sand down just a wee bit off the side of the connecting plank and from then on somehow, everything flowed beautifully. The chiseling was hard, really. This wood is like stone. Things looked crazy with all the broken up pieces, my kid asking why I had to make the plank look so "horrible" . Thankfully it all worked out and it's just one amazing continuous install now.

On the other balcony side, I discovered from trial and error that I need about 3/4 of 1 degree miter in addition to the bevel. Getting the exact length measurements was not as hard as I thought. Once I got past the doorway I was home free until the rounded corner. This I could not cut. The table saw cuts the bevel on the opposite side that I needed. What I've done is sand the balcony edge a bit to make the planks fit exactly. Then I left a small triangular hole which I must find a way to fill in somehow .

All in all it has been just miraculous to watch the floors meet up and continue. The issues with the doorways not being perpendicular are completely invisible.

Many many thanks to all, and Howard (Floorologist) in particular, for helping out and in such a timely manner. My camera's battery is down and everything is in the garage so I promise I'll post pics when I get a chance.