Amish made hardwood

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 Post subject: floorguy, HELP, you were right, I have hollow spots!!!!!
PostPosted: Sat May 13, 2006 11:31 am 
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HELP!!!
I told the guy's what you said about the Sika glue causing hollow spots and they used it anyway. Now I have several hollow spots when I walk on the floor. I haven't paid them yet, and they are coming back to finish the baseboards. What do I do about the hollow spots.
I am doing a second floor in a couple weeks, what glue should I use? The floor is Mirage engineered. You were right about that glue. Please answer me soon. they are coming back on Monday.
Donna :cry:


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Amish made hardwood

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PostPosted: Sat May 13, 2006 7:57 pm 
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Well at this point they can drill a tiny hole in the corn edge seams on the end joints and inject more adhesive.


I don't call a hollow spot less then, .75 sq.ft. when I'm inspecting, unless it is making noise, or is not a single isolated hollow, with many around it ing the general area.


Bostiks, BST

Or I'm going to give the new Stauf 960 a try on the next job. I've heard nothing but praises about the Stauf.

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 Post subject: floorguy, help you were right, I have hollow spots!!!
PostPosted: Sun May 14, 2006 6:24 am 
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Floorguy,
I researched this site and I think filling the hollow is the best answer. Thank you floorguy.
I am really upset with this guy's work. He was referred to me by my kitchen designer. He is on this website as a member of one of the wood associations and this website recommends him. He only sells and installs hardwood floors.
I have been reading on this forum about leveling the floor first, but he never mentioned that process, only told us after the job that the floors are uneven. I asked him to do a moisture test and he showed me how unreliable the meter was and that since the condo is 35 years old, I don't have moisture issues. His guy's are always late and he never checks on the job. He didn't order enough wood to finish the job and then tried to blame me for that.
I purchased a very expensive wood and now I have an uneven floor with hollow spots. Who knows if I'll have a cupping problem.
I am getting ready to do a second floor and don't know what to do. When you hire a profesional installer, you shouldn't have to have so many problems.
Donna :cry:


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PostPosted: Sun May 14, 2006 6:39 am 
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I totally understand. These days where true craftsmen that care and take pride in their work, are few and far between, the consumers must know more about the installation, then the installer, or they get screwed in some way. That's not just flooring, either.


You can blame that on businesses, that decided to call their employees, subcontractors. It has ruined the true craftsmen and taught the new guys coming up in their trades to be very unscrupulous.

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PostPosted: Sun May 14, 2006 7:54 am 
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floorguy,
One more question, (I hope). These guy's didn't do any leveling. The floor is a little uneven, but not really noticable. When I do my next floor in a couple weeks, should I insist that they level it? How common is leveling a floor in a highrise condo, 700sf, over concrete subfloors. Is there anything else I should know about.
Maybe I should have done the floor myself, just kidding :)
Donna


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PostPosted: Sun May 14, 2006 8:27 am 
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The installation specifications for all hard surface flooring, are pretty strict, and need to be met before the flooring gets installed. Your installer accepted the substrate as approved, and installed over it. In other words, the floor was installed out of industry or manufacturers allowable tolerance for substrate flattness. If a contractor installs outside of industry and manufacturers requirements and it becomes a failure claim, the contractor is liable for all repairs, including materials to correct the installation to industry and maunfacturers requirements and standards.

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PostPosted: Sun May 14, 2006 8:38 am 
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Thanks floorguy,
I wish you lived in Chicago.
Donna
P.S. I'm going to Home Depot to pick up a 2x4 and measure the flatness. I found an independant inspector in the area. Do I need to hire him, or should I try and resolve this myself?


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PostPosted: Sun May 14, 2006 9:31 am 
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I can't tell you why, but Chicago has more flooring problems than anywhere else in the country.


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PostPosted: Sun May 14, 2006 10:26 am 
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No kidding, Jerry!!!! With all the failures problems and concerns posted in this forum, Chicago leads the post count with at least 10, with other spread out here and there over the country and even the world.



A lot of people here want me to install their flooring too, but ½ of them can't afford me, or that's what I get from them saying. I can get it done at a ¼ of that price. :shock:

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PostPosted: Sun May 14, 2006 11:07 am 
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Floorguy,
I have about 600sf, Mirage engineered Maple, installed on concrete. Glue down installation. There is furniture in the room, but we moved 90% of it, including closets. The labor was $4000.00. We paid for all of the materials, wood. acoustitech, glue, trowels, even lunch. What would you have charged?
Donna


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PostPosted: Sun May 14, 2006 12:55 pm 
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Location: Antioch, CA. 94509
$4,000.00 divided by 600 sq.ft.= $6.67 per sq.ft. , a very good price (for the installer, not for the buyer) in ANY market UNLESS there was to be extensive leveling, demo, furniture moving, baseboards and trims. But $6.67 a ft. is pretty high for install floor only, IMO.


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PostPosted: Sun May 14, 2006 4:14 pm 
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Gary,
We moved 90% of the furniture, by choice.
Cost as follows, tearing down the carpet @0.75=$416.00, installing acoustitech @ 1.25=$693.00 , floor labor @3.75=$2081.00, baseboards, 140 linnear feet @5.25 =$735.00, total=$3925.00. We bought all the wood, but got it for the installers price. Most guy's in Chicago mark up the wood too!!! We bought all supplies, glue, acoustitech, even trowels. This was based on 555sf.
Donna


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PostPosted: Sun May 14, 2006 4:56 pm 
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Sounds fair to me then.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 14, 2006 5:24 pm 
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Gary,
Also diagonal install.
donna


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 15, 2006 6:16 pm 
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diagonal is always more. At Least For me it is.

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