Hi All,

Has anyone here done an install w/ Floor Muffler's HPA system? (dual glue down method)?

I had purchases a bunch of Floor Muffler to do a floating install, only to find that my room was too large to do a continuous floating install with out having to put in transitions to allow for expansion.

So I was considering doing a double glue down w/ the Floor Muffler now.

Wondering if anyone has any experience and if doing this is worth the trouble, or if I should just eat the return fees and just return the Floor Muffler and do a traditional glue down.

Is there any benefit to using Floor Muffler in a glue down install over concrete? Will it still help w/ sound deadening?

Thanks!

-ben

How large is large? You can easily allow for more expansion by undercutting the sheetrock, pulling the base and using quarter round or shoe. All those together can give you more than an inch, inch and a half easily.

Stephen,

I don't have the exact dimensions on me at the moment, but the space I am wanting to do in my house is a large area that encompasses 3 rooms and a hall way. The floorplan of my home is very open, so there are basically no walls dividing the 3 rooms.

At it's widest measurement, it's probably around 40 ft wide, and at it's longest, it's probably close to 50 ft. The rooms are offset slightly though, so the points where those extreme dimensions exist are not all consistent.

It's kind of hard to explain w/o a drawing I guess.

Your idea of undercutting the sheet rock is clever though... the question would be if my area (Austin, TX) is considered dry? B/c if so, I'd assume that I'd want to use the expansion space mostly to cover contraction?

Generally speaking, if I was to just forget doing a floating install and just opt to do a traditional glue down, do I have to worry about room size like I do with floating? Or w/ glue down can I just leave the std expansion gap at the walls regardless of room size?

Thanks,

-ben

Well 40 to 45 feet is about the limit. But your manufacturers installation guidelines should have some verbage in there about extra expansion space as I mentioned.

I do it all the time and I am in a zone thats dry to extremely wet in the monsoon season. Where people get into problems is under door casings. You must cut them deep so you have at least an inch of space under them. It ain't easy unless you have the proper tools. And lately I have seen even laminate manufacturers allowing longer widths and lengths if you do so.

Kahrs has a gluedown method for their click. Some manufacturers may not want you adding T&G adhesive into the joinery because the milling may be to tight. However most say to shave the lip of the locking mechanisn when it a tough spot, like under a door casing where clicking at a 45 or 30 degree is not possible. Then the glue is the only thing holding it together. I do that with just about every locking floor.

Call your manufacturer and ask.