I'm trying to decide what solution is best for a plank subfloor. I do not want to build up the subfloor with another layer of plywood due to transition considerations with adjacent rooms. I'm trying to decide what's going to work better over a really old (100+ yrs) plank subfloor--floating or solid/nail down. Seems like solid is what would have been traditionally used back in the day (and would be preferable asthetically). A floating floor, if you believe the hype, can go over anything, but I suspect they are much less tolerant than the home cheapo guys make them out to be. WRT floating floors, I'm looking at lino (Forbo), cork, or engineered. I'm kind of leaning toward the cork or marmoleum since they are not pretending to be anything other than what they are, whereas the engineered seems like a hardwood wanabe. Only hardwood seems to be historically accurate, but my house is more simply old than truly historic. I've gone back and forth and around again on this more times than I can count.

Anyway, my main question is, How much does the plank subfloor figure into my decision?

Also, I see various posts on this forum quoting $3-4/sq ft for installation. Does that generally include demolition work or no?

Thanks

For either type of floor, nail down or floating, the subfloor needs to be fairly flat and sturdy enough. I suspect your 100 yr. old subfloor is built from full 1" thick rough sawn wide planks, in either a type of pine or fir. That would be that most common. Those are often laid at 90 degrees ( right angle ) to the floor joists, which are hopefully 16" OC. More than likely, after all this time, those subfloors are somewhat noisy and loose. If I were to install over them, I'd re-nail and sand down any high spots or crowns in those planks. Then when re-fastened and flat, you can nail down a nice 3/4" T&G solid perpendicular to the direction of the planks. If the planks happen to be laid diagonally, then run the flooring perpendicular to the direction of the floor joists. You can float a floor in if you prefer. Floaters just look different usually. And have a slight give/cushion to them. They are often engineered flooring as well. Floaters can be easier for the novice to install.

Sure seems a shame not to install solid naildown in a home like that

I have to agree with that floorolgist. However cork flooring has been used for over 300 years in Europe! Not to mention it IS part of an Oak tree. hehehe

My preference is the USFloors cork which has a sealed edge to help prevent water intrusion. Second would be Wicanders.

Always loved Cork. Brought up as a kid ,let's say __ years ago My father installed it in my bedroom, (obviously, before it made a comeback).

Absolutely right on about that sealed edge, I've seen problems without it.

I like the concept of cork for certain applications as well. We use the Torly's product and Jelinek on occasion. Both have the sealed edges that is so important, but in the case of Torly's, their finish discolours very rapidly and looks like shoot on some colours.
Sheesh, ya cant win.

Thanks for the input, all. I'll probably ponder this for a while longer. The 2 floors I'm looking at pulling up are sheet vinyl (kitchen) and some really nasty carpet (living room), so pretty much anything will be a step up.

The living room is the most frustrating, since there is hardwood under the carpet for half of the room, and 5/8" plywood subfloor for the other half due to an addition that was put on the house. In an ideal world, I would lower the plywood subfloor somehow and match up with the original maple (I think it's maple anyway). I can't even picture in my head how that would be done, though.