Amish made hardwood

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 Post subject: FLoating Floor seams and rising
PostPosted: Fri Nov 17, 2006 12:46 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 17, 2006 12:38 pm
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I have installed a Kahrs beech floating floor over a concrete slab on grade - in two locations the floor has a "soft" spot and drops slightly. Any solutions short of removing the floor and installing shingles or some other shim?

Also, the seams are really starting to show. The floor was acclimated about two weeks prior to install, but we have a pretty large humidity swing here in NM (we use evapoartive cooling in the summer). The seams are very noticible now (winter drying season) and the edges are starting to rise a bit - I can see some damage to the seam.

Lastly, the reducer keeps coming up at the tile transition, the flooring with it. I am planning on using liquid nails to keep the aluminium reducer "keeper" down and the reducer to the "keeper". Any other solutions?


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Amish made hardwood

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 17, 2006 2:59 pm 
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Location: Antioch, CA. 94509
Quote:
I have installed a Kahrs beech floating floor over a concrete slab on grade - in two locations the floor has a "soft" spot and drops slightly. Any solutions short of removing the floor and installing shingles or some other shim?

With a floater, that's what needs to be done to fix an uneven substrate. If it had been glued down directly, you could do the epoxy injection method.

Quote:
Also, the seams are really starting to show. The floor was acclimated about two weeks prior to install, but we have a pretty large humidity swing here in NM (we use evapoartive cooling in the summer). The seams are very noticible now (winter drying season) and the edges are starting to rise a bit - I can see some damage to the seam.

All flooring manufacturers made a big deal about telling customers how to maintain their floors properly. And controlling interior temperature and humidity is part of that maintenance. You need a hygrometer (humidistat) to monitor interior relative humidity. And then keep the humidity between the manufacturer's recommended low and high points, typically 40 to 60%.
Quote:
Lastly, the reducer keeps coming up at the tile transition, the flooring with it. I am planning on using liquid nails to keep the aluminium reducer "keeper" down and the reducer to the "keeper". Any other solutions?

Use PL Premium Polyurethane adhesive to adhere that trim to the concrete. Or use tapcon concrete screws into the aluminum track.


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