I am interested in floating engineered hardwood which is designated for floating on ceramic tile floor which is not damaged. I am told that it is standard to remove the tile which can cost a lot to remove and will require much more time to complete, not to mention the dust factor. Is there something that needs to be done to the ceremic tile to prepare for a successful installation? Please help, because all of the hardware stores are recommending that I remove the tile or the warranty of the hardwood will not be valid.

You DO NOT need to remove the ceramic, for a floating installation.

You will need to check for lipped tiles and grout joints bigger then 1/2"

The substrate requirements for floating a floor are flat and solid.

Thanks Floorguy for your information. I really appreciate it. I need more information. What does this mean --substrate requirements for floating a floor are flat and solid ? What else do I need to know about floating hardwood on ceramic? I have copies of the information that is posted on this website regarding floating floors. I plan to hire someone to install it. I have installation requirements from the manufacturer of the hardwood. Why is everyone recommending that I remove the ceramic? Someone even said that the floor would be uneven and the hardwood would probably buckle. What do you think about that statement?

I have done this in my house - over 1300sqft worth over the ceramic tile.

The tile needs to be well bonded and flat. Per the earlier post, that means if there are wide grout lines, they need to be filled so the entire floor is level and flat. My floor was level, but I had grout lines that were a bit over 1/4". I used ARDEX SDF to fill/level out the grout lines and make sure the floor was level to spec. My choice not to rip up the tile was because it was well bonded and set into the slab, so I would have had to level the subfloor after tearing up all the tile anyway.

In addition, even though it wasn't required and the tile itself was a pseudo moisture barrier, I was neurotic and put down MVP for a moisture barrier on top of the leveled floor.

Be sure you don't have any height issues with doors, thresholds, appliances, etc.

Flat: 3/16 of an inch, in 10 feet radius. Any high lips on the tiles, will need to be chipped down, or the flooring will flex.

Solid: No movement / flex. If you have ceramic tiles and they are well bonded, that is about as solid as it gets.

I just want to thank all of you wonderful people who responded to my request for information on floating engineered on ceramic tile. Thanks for such a quick response. It has been a challenge for me; I now know what I need to be cautious about, what preparations may be needed.
Again, thank you!

Hello and thank you in advance for any expertise you can lend. Whew! I've talked with several installers about my project and find a variety of opinions, but a good deal of missing information.

-I have ugly porcelain tile installed UNDER base cabinets.
-Tile and hardwood installers who have visited have ALL advised against cutting tile around cabinets.
-Floor is already noticeably higher than surrounding floors (previous owners installed the ugly ceramic.
-Was recommended after a lot of back and forth to do a "floating floor"
-Current issues and questions..

1. Glue or Clip Lock: One person said they'd glue down the floor, the other said they'd just install the clip locking over foam, no gluing--is one better than the other? What factors should I consider?

2. Floor Heigh-How High is Too High? The height of the floor is already noticeable. I'm willing to have it slightly raised and was told there are floating floors (Kahrs was mentioned) that are thinner than others. However, installer indicated these 1/4 in products were not good quality. What factors should I consider here? Should I go with the thicker laminate if I go ahead and just try to create the best transitions possible?

3. Appliances. Yikes! : I have no idea what to do here. The dishwasher legs can go lower, so I'm not worried about this -- I'd have a plumber remove the d/w, lower the legs, and put back in after floors. However, how would I protect the floors? The fridge is different It's a subzero tightly installed--it needed service the other day, and the service man indicated there was about 1/2 inch to play with, but that's it. What factors should I consider here.

The installer who visited today indicated this was the only project in 22 years that he could not "figure out" to his satisfaction -- there are too many issues. I am also happy to provide photos of the "problem areas" if this is helpful.

Any any help that you can offer will be appreciated!!