Hi there...

I've been reading lots and searching, but I've yet to come across the answers I'm looking for...

I've read several diy refinishing articles. My questions are relating to the article posted on this website... here's the link: http://www.hardwoodinstaller.com/hardwo ... floors.htm

1. They say to do your first pass with the sander diagonally; however, every other site has said this is bad and you should always sand with the grain.... any thoughts on this?

2. What is "broad filled.. trowel applied"... "To fill any gapping in the floor after the use of the 60 grit procedure, some of the sanding dust from the drum sander was mixed with the varnish to form a paste about the consistency and color of honey. After vacuuming, the floor was broad filled (trowel applied) with the paste." And are they saying you do this, THEN sand again before applying the first coat of varnish?

Thanks for your help!
-Matt

Not at a 45º diagonally.
About a 15º and that is if it is a real bad floor, your trying to get existing character out of the floor, or new install with lots of overwood.

After your first cut, the floor gets trowel filled if your going to do it. Then you can spot fill what you see as you go.

Ok, thanks... the floor is in pretty good shape I think, so I'll go with the grain.

...I'm sorry, but I still don't understand what it means to "trowel fill". I know what a trowel is when setting tiles... so when I hear "trowel filled" i picture using a trowel as an applicator for the paste... am I on the right path? Is there a special trowel used for the application or the same as you'd use for tile? And is this something that is done to the entire floor?

Thanks again.
-Matt

Yes, in a sense. The trowel in this case is a smooth edged trowel with no grooves or ridges, very much like a steel trowel used for finishing concrete. The filler is troweled over the entire floor, pushing it into the holes and cracks and not leaving any excess on the surface. This is important to not leave globs and lumps of filler to harden as it will make the sanding difficult. Sanding the floors at an angle is for a couple of reasons. If the floors are badly cupped or really in poor shape, a 45 degree angle cut with coarse paper will level it fast and evenly. Also, that 7 to 15 degree angle sanding is typically use for the European designed belt style floor sanders. These often run at higher drum speeds and are used slightly differently than the older drum sanders. For the novice using a rental sander, I'd recommend sanding with the direction of the boards.

Hehehm... Sanding the floor their way will cut the refinishing life of that floor in half. Go with the grain .... 3 str8 passes 36(maybe on a 7-15 degree angle with Hummel) then 60 lastly 100 unless threre is flood damage. Then x the floor with 36 or 60 on a diagonal each way. Finish with str8 passes of 60 (assuming you had to diagonal with 36), then 100.

I always start cross cutting no matter how good of shape the floor is in. On oak I cross 36 then in line 36 then do all of my edgeing then finish in line 80 before buffing. On maple i do the same 36 cross and in line then 50 in line, edge, then 80 and 100 in line, buff it's been working pretty well I just started buffing with a bona 100 grit double sided paper before a 120 screen it seems to make for a very flat smooth floor.........JHope this doesn't confuse the issue