Hi,
I'm currently removing glued down parquette floor. It's really difficult to get off. Some of the tiles come off completely while others leave chunks of the parquette still stuck to the subfloor (3/4 t&g). I then can go back and bink them off with a hammer and chisel. In a few areas, I've removed the first layer of small parts of the subfloor.
I want to install 3/4" solid hardwood in place of the parquette. The question I have is; how smooth does the subfloor have to be? I'm assuming that since I'll be doing naildown that I won't have to remove the old parquette glue. If I get the majority of the leftover parquette chunks off the subfloor, should I be ok to install?
In addition, for some of the areas where I pulled up some of the plywood surface, is there a product I can use to fill that in that can also be used as a self-leveling compound that can accept naildown? I've read about some products that also act as a moisture barrier. That would be helpful since I have certain areas of the subfloor that are out of spec with the moisture meter. I believe the majority of that problem is caused by a bay window and front door that do not have flashing or even caulk installed. I'll fix that before the hardwood installation.
I'm going to need some help with this installation, so I hope someone can advise me.
Thanks.

The more I read, it seems that the subfloor is going to need to be cleaned up
of most of the glue to get it as flat as possible. And, it also appears that slc of any cementious type is not recommended, although I have seen some that say it can.
I read a recent reply on another thread where "Floorologist" suggests to use the Hilti TE505 hammer drill with a Vulcan scraper blade to get the parquette tiles up. I see the drill at Home Depot rental. I wondered if HD also carries that scraper blade?
It seems that some company is going to make a bundle when they figure out how to make an SLC or at least a high-compression filler that can be safely nailed through. So, to fill dips in the floor, I should use roofing shingles and tar paper?
I've also read that Bondo could be used to fix some of the subfloor gouges I've put in it, but given that's epoxy, will that be able to be nailed through when I install the hardwood?

Well, I tried the Hilti TE505 hammer drill with Vulcan scraper just now.
It was not bad, but also not as good as I'd hoped it would be. HD didn't charge me anything to try it out which was nice of them.
Mostly the issue with it is the angle of the blade. If the bit cold be installed so that
the drill could be laid on its side instead of vertically with the handle in the way, the angle would be better. I did take up some subfloor along with the parquette in a couple places, but the other tiles that came up were mostly whole tiles and the subfloor was much smoother than banging it out with a hand-sledge and flat prybar. It was high on the effort level though due to the weight of it and having to push so hard against it. I think I will use it though. I just need to maybe screw a two by four into the subfloor behind me to give me something to push off of.
I might also check other rental centers for a similar product that might allow a shallower angle of attack. I saw that Hitachi and and Bosch also carry a Floor scraper blade. Maybe their hammer drills might be different.
After typing all the above, I then noticed the picture of the TE505 on the HD web site that shows the bit installed exactly as I wanted it... to the side. I tried several times to get the bit to go in that way, but it seemed only to slide in aligned with the handle vertically...
http://www.homedepotrents.com/diyTools/demo_hammer.asp
If it really does work that way, then I'll definately rent it for the remainder of the job.

That's pretty cool they let you try it. The TE-505 is actually a demolition hammer, not a hammer drill.

The guys at most HD rentals need lesson on their equip.
The handle is adjustable & also turns, to whatever position needed. It will allow the user to lay the blade down low, and in any 360 degree position.
The hammer also has a small switch for 2 speeds.
You can also like their picture, place the bit on its side by pulling in on the chuck and turning the bit to other positions.

Thanks Floorologist for the clarification and also for the initial suggestion.
It also occured to me this morning that I could have turned the drill/demo hammer upside down to achieve the angle I wanted. I guess maybe I dreamt that because it seems the first thing I thought of when I woke up this morning. My subconscious must have been saying something like "you idiot". Sometimes I wonder.
Getting back to the original questions. Will I need to go nuts removing all the glue or just get any obvious high points removed? Is there some kind of slc or at least a filler that can be nailed through? Also, for those spots where I gouged the subfloor, is it bondo that you'd recommend or some other floor patch compound? I just don't know if you can nail through bondo. I have in the past used a mixture of Elmers and sawdust effectively, but I haven't used it for a subfloor. It also doesn't sand very well since the glue will heat up and melt some, at least when a belt sander is applied.
One other thing...I need a moisture meter. I read some on this site and saw a few recommended including this one: tramex M285, but they're kind of out of my price range. I was hoping to find one in the $100 range that would be good enough for occasional use. It doesn't have to be the most durable on the market, but hopefully would give good readings on the subfloor and the hardwood when it arrives. Any suggestions?
Thanks.

Ping...anyone know what I can use to repair small sections of plywood subfloor?
Has to be able to be nailed through.
thanks.

Depends on how badly damaged the sections of subfloor are. Sometimes its better to remove a section and replace it entirely.
Otherwise, if you are just patching missing sections of the top veneer you can use wood filler if you want; since it isnt a structural repair you are doing.

Thanks Dennis,
I think that's all it is. The floor seems strong when I bounce on it.
I had a whole bunch of little chunks sticking up all over the place that did not
remove properly. I had been taking a hammer and chisel to them. But, I decided
to try my planer and that worked really well and very fast. I'm sure I have some
glue on the blade but I can clean that off.