Amish made hardwood

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 Post subject: First flooring project - tools and technique questions
PostPosted: Wed Aug 31, 2005 8:43 am 
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Joined: Wed Aug 31, 2005 7:40 am
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Hello,

This is my first hardwood flooring project, and I have a few questions:

Project details:
Relatively small area (120 sq ft), 2nd floor landing. Shaped like a fat "U" with the outside of the "U" leading to 5 rooms and the inside formed by the staircase / railing. I'm planning on installing 3/8" Santos Mahogany.

Questions:
1. Nailer - should I go for a manual or pneumatic ? Considerations are
a) price
b) is there any merit to the idea of 'learn with manual, you'll do a better job (or less damage) later with a pneumatic.

2. If pnuematic (no, it's not a foregone conclusion)
a) Nailer or stapler (the contractor's chitchat forum seems to lean towards staples).
b) Do I absolutely have to go for a **FLOORING** nailer / stapler, or can I get by with a finishing nailer/stapler - they're less expensive, and are less likely to become dead investments after i'm done with the flooring.

3. Transitions and spacing - I understand that I should leave a 1/2 to 3/4" spacing against the walls. But What about the transition at the stairs and railing - can I go flush against them. If the answer is NO, how do I cover the gap betweent the flooring and the stairs / railing ?

4. Any other gotcha's that a beginner needs to look out for (I am reading a Stanley book, internet how-to's on installation prior to starting).

Thanks :D


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Amish made hardwood

 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 31, 2005 10:44 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 14, 2005 12:05 pm
Posts: 1391
Location: Knoxville,Tn
I would approach it like this in your situation. first dry lay the floor to fit, second go rent a pnumatic stapler from the depot or your local rental co. Go for the staples on anything less thatn 1/2" thick. beacuse you are using an engeneered floor just a little expansion should be fine, they dont require the 3/4" like a solid product might. third The transition between the floor and the stairnose and railing is going to depend on the higth diffrence and you can run it flush, just try to compensate on the oppisite side if possible. lastly its going to be a chore to do this from your discription it sounds like a real pain imo.

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Kevin Daniel
Heartland Hardwood Flooring
Knoxville, Tn
www.HeartlandHardwoodFlooring.com


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 31, 2005 4:14 pm 
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Joined: Wed Aug 31, 2005 7:40 am
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Hi Kevin,

Thanks for the advice. Didnt think of dry laying BEFORE renting.
FYI, it's 3/8th solid, not engineered. Does this change the advice ?
Wrt your comment - "its going to be a chore to do this from your discription it sounds like a real pain imo" - are you referring to shape of the layout ? Or something else ?

Thanks again


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 01, 2005 9:56 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 14, 2005 12:05 pm
Posts: 1391
Location: Knoxville,Tn
I am talking about the layout curves are tricky you will have to scribe all the endcuts so they cover also 5 doors will have to be cut and transitions made in each to the other floor covering. Now you start to see why flooring contactors prefer to price floors by the job not by the foot. solid products due require expasion somewhere, you could run it tightalong the rail and leave the expansion on the oppisite side use as much as possible that will cover with base shoe or hidden under transition pieces whichever applies.

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Kevin Daniel
Heartland Hardwood Flooring
Knoxville, Tn
www.HeartlandHardwoodFlooring.com


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