Hi, I just finished pole sanding with 220 after my first coat of water-based poly dried for more than 24 hours. I waited this long so I could sand due to a few "stop" lines from the foam applicator showing after the first coat was dry. I was hoping the sanding would eliminate them, but it has not. The wood looks like straight water lines were left behind, same length as foam applicator, not really lap marks as they are dark. I'm wondering if I am not sanding enough or if I have water stained the floor (raw floor/no stain) by inadvertently pressing or holding too much product on the applicator. My floor does look slightly chalky since the sanding, but it didn't remove the marks. I pushed the sanding pole four times back and fourth, took a step, and four times again, continuously down the floor until I completed the room. Any suggestions for eliminating these lines before I go on? Am I sanding enough? Will additional coats level everything and blend the lines? I would hate to have the lines show in my final finish. Thank you.

BTW, the lines are 14", 18', and 24" apart - two sets in one bedroom, one set in the other. I don't think these would be considered chatter marks as they are not consistent and the floor has no grooves. The lines are perfectly smooth and the floors are quite smooth with no undulation. The lines are closest to the wall where I was working my way out of both rooms, starting about a pole length or so away from the doorway. It was a bit harder for me to work these last rows. Using a satin, high traffic, water-based from Varathane.

First coat, keep going. Finish will dry quick on the first coat without flowing.

Thanks, Pete. What about my pole sanding technique between coats? I'm doing four pushes, moving, and repeat, across the room. I am not creating the dust I see in some of the videos where a buffer is used. I read one should "lightly" sand using 220, but I also read that no shiny areas should be left after sanding. I'm not sure if I'm sanding enough or not. Thanks, again.

Light sanding between coats of water-base will not have the powdering that one expects from solvent based finishes. Water-base is not as hard, but it is tougher, so although it will scratch, it does not powder off. The additional coats that are applied with water-based finish cover up the grain raise so it is not necessary to get the first coats sanded smooth. It will stick.

Thanks again, Pete. Two additional coats down. Working on the final coat tomorrow.

Well, it went down hill after the second coat. The water-based says you don't have to sand between coats (I did sand after 1st coat because I waited more than 24 hrs), so I applied 3rd coat without sanding. 3rd coat showed marks where bubbles had popped. I decided to sand and apply another coat. The marks did not really improve much with sanding, so I cleaned up and applied the 4th coat, but that coat left streaks where it looked like I missed application. Sanded again. Reapplied. Still looks patchy. Seems like the more I do, the worse it gets. I was using a synthetic applicator pad. I am tempted to try a roller. Any opinions regarding types of roller?

Sorry that you have had some trouble. Your floor is probably well protected by now. I hear that guys use a mohair roller 3/8, but I have never used one. You need to be consistent with your finish application rows when you roll. Keep drafts away and work in the cooler part of the day. Then ventilate when you are through.

Arrow worthy brand or Bona brand microfiber rollers work great but it depends on what finish you are using . Some water based and oil based finishes do not roll well . And only experience will help you know exactly what finishes work for this .
Basic Coatings, Bona and Loba are the only 3 water based finish manufacturers that I know of that produce rollable water based finishes .