I just applied the topcoat of satin (oil-modified poly) to a refinished white oak floor in my house. The results are acceptable for my DIY standards, but there are the usual (for me) collection of lap lines, thick spots, etc. As a woodworker, I've been wondering about this. In woodworking, we always finish our finishes by rubbing out brush lines, etc with a series of very fine abrasives and steel wool. This results in a very smooth, even finish throughout the work piece.

Woodworkers sneak up on a perfect finish while floor finishers seem to rely on a combination of skilll and luck. (More luck than skill for the DIYer.) Is there such a thing a "finishing the finish" in floor finishing? I tried buffing satin poly with a white pad, but that left a kind of semi-gloss shine on top of the satin, which I didn't much are for. I prefer a much duller sheen.

Any thoughts?

What type of poly and what applicator did you use? Floor finishes should not lap unless you worked into an area that was already skimmed over you have to keep a wet edge and feather your cut in areas very little luck involved it's knowing what you are working with and how it works. finishing a 2 x 5 table is a whole diffrent story when you compare it to finishing you floor. If you try to get it "perfect" often you overwork the poly causing those brush marks, quality floor finishes are pretty forgiving if you post what finish and application I could give you some more help.

Thanks for your quick reply, Kevin.

I'm using Varethane "Super-Build" oil-modified, satin. It's fairly thick (I think some call it "goo" or have even worse names for it). I've tried thinning it a bit with mineral spirits, which seems to help. I have quite a bit of the stuff, and I'd like to use it up.

Usually, I apply it with a large China white bristle brush. I've become fairly good at applying it that way, though it's slow. Recently, I tried a 9 inch Shurline pad, which works quite well, though feathering can be a bit challenging. I was hoping to use it on a pole, so I could sight things from a standing position, but that didn't work as well as a short handle on my hands and knees.

I've seen where people suggest rolling the final coat. I tried that with a test piece, but the finish didn't fully lay down, leaving a very slight "pocked" look to the surface.

I suppose I could rescreen and try again. I'm hesitant to do another coat. This is my third satin coat and I don't want things to get murky. Besides, my wife is eager to get back into her home office.

Varathane brand of finishes are the typical hardware store homeowner crap. NO pro uses them. There is only one that I used once made by Minwax. It flowed out nicely and wasn't too thick. Keep in mind VOC laws allow the better finishes to be sold in quarts and that gallon stuff is usually the 350 voc "goo" that is impossible to use. If it were me, I'd allow the last coat to cure well (2 weeks minimum) and then abrade it well to remove the finishing flaws and then recoat with a quality finish. My preference is Woodline OMU by Bona or Basic's OMU. I think you will find both of these easier to use and they deliver quality finishes.
Kevin's right about over-working the finish. So many keep brushing away in the same place trying to eliminate bubbles or flaws. But in fact, they are making the matter worse. There is an "art" to floor finishing that few furniture finishers will ever understand.
And we do NOT polish our floor finishes after they are dry UNLESS one is using a penetrating oil finish, which can be burnished. Also, wax finishes are buffed out as well. But urethanes are not hand-rubbed. JUst as clear coats on cars are not rubbed out any more. There are some lacquers and paints that are made to be rubbed out and polished but they are not used in flooring.

Thanks, Gary. Very helpful. I'm happy to know that I'm trying the "impossible" with my hardware store "goop." There is a vast difference between finishing floors and furniture. As an irreformable DIYer, I've learned great respect for the pros who do their craft well. They're worth every penny. Thanks to guys like you who share your experience with us.

I'd love to give the roll-on method a shot. Any chance I can thin that 350 VOC "goo" crap enough to roll it on? Or should I just ship it off to the toxic waste boys and go with a can of the good stuff?

Thanks again for your advice.

Bill

Thinning out VOC compliant finishes is illegal so I will not recommend it. If unopened, you can probably return it. I wouldn't waste my efforts on using that stuff, thinned out or not. And some thinners will make the finish flash off faster, not slower. Best not to play chemist and just go get some professional product.

Just a final update on this finish project.

I took Gary's advice and screened the 3 coats of Varathane with 120 and 220 screens on a buffer. I was having trouble getting my hands on "the good stuff" in CA, though Gary did provide some flooring dealers in my general area. Since time was ticking, my wife is having back surgery next week, and patience was running a bit low, I decided to go back to Home Depot. They graciously, and without question, took back my hoarded supply of unopened Varathane even without receipt (for store credit). I bought some of their Parks Pro-Finisher OMU. It's still 350 VOC but a totally different animal out of the can. The stuff laid down very smoothly. I imagine "the good stuff" is even better, but I couldn't be happier with the outcome. I applied it my old DIY way, on my knees with a 4 inch white bristle brush. (I've since found a 9-inch brush for the next floor.) I was careful to feather into a wet edge, let the finish flow, lightly tip, keep a wet edge, etc.

Result: Wall to wall satin sheen, even with two bright windows at the end of a long hallway. ':D' I was beginning to think it wasn't possible.

My thanks to Gary and the rest of you guys who take the time to advise us weekend warriors who love to do things ourselves, even if it kills us. I always respect a craftsman who is willing to share his "trade secrets," because in the end it's skill and experience, not secrets, that make good pros worth every penny.