Amish made hardwood

It is currently Sun Nov 24, 2024 8:24 pm

All times are UTC - 5 hours




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 3 posts ] 
Author Message
 Post subject: Finishing 100+ year old Maple floor + patches
PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2016 1:24 pm 
Offline
New User

Joined: Mon Jan 04, 2016 12:05 pm
Posts: 1
I have a 100+ year old house and am working on removing all the gunk from several layers of vinyl. I have purchased new maple for the patches and remaining 1/3 of the room (that wasn't maple originally). Should I try to blend in the new and old when installing - or will this make the color process more difficult? or should I try to stain the new to amber it? I'd actually like to stain the entire thing -the old stain is a nice light brown.
Shallac? Water popping?
Thank you


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
Amish made hardwood

 Post subject: Re: Finishing 100+ year old Maple floor + patches
PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2016 2:20 am 
Offline
Prized Contributor

Joined: Tue Jun 16, 2015 12:02 am
Posts: 1754
Sometimes the flooring in an old house will not match new flooring where the T&G slides together, so that would mean it's not possible to blend old flooring with the new.
It would make matching the color less noticeable if you could mix the old flooring taken from the room with new. You should try to match the grade of the old flooring, too, either 1st, or second and better. Second and better may have mineral streaks.
An old floor was usually only varnished with a gloss varnish after a shellac seal coat and turned brown with no stain. The finish obscured the grain because it darkened.
A maple floor was usually kept light, but with a modern finish it looks much better when it has been stained the light brown before the clear finish. Maple will amber on it's own over time with exposure to light. Practice sanding and then have a stain sample to choose the color. Get the color you want and just accept that it will deepen in color as it ambers. Oil based poly-urethan will yellow depending on the brand that is used, so some people like the water based finish that can go on right after the stain has dried thoroughly without a sealer coat. Water popping will give a more intense color and will show less sanding marks.
A stained floor will help anchor the architecture, especially with high ceilings.


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
 Post subject: Re: Finishing 100+ year old Maple floor + patches
PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2016 8:53 pm 
Offline
Worthy Contributor

Joined: Sun Feb 10, 2013 4:13 pm
Posts: 128
Location: Burlingame, CA
In my experience, water-popping is the only way maple will accept a stain.

_________________
Farrell Wills
SF Peninsula, California
http://www.farrellwills.net/


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 3 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 5 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB © 2000, 2002, 2005, 2007 phpBB Group

phpBB SEO