Completed 1800 sqft solid bamboo installation. Here are a few findings that might help others that will be doing a similar job; as well, feel free to comment by replying to the post

1) spend some time testing your stapler, using shims (cardboard, felt paper, ...) to get the right height of the plate, so the staples sit right in the corner of the tongue. If your stapler still leave marks on the beveld edge, you can tilt the stapler a little forward once you set it against the edge and before hitting the stapler with the mallet. (this is when the little groove on the stapler is not at the exact height of the planks edge and hence might damage it when you hit the staples in). I believe this is all caused by the tongue that is not at an exact 90 degree angle to the edge of the plank. As well, PLAY WITH THE PRESSURE: i found that 70-75 psi was about the right pressure. It also depends with what force you hit the trigger with the mallet.

2) the 72 horizontal natural bamboo boxes were quite mixed in terms of actual width of each plank, "colour", shade, shape (some slightly bowed, some slightly cupped, and very few curved); I would say 1/2 a box in total were damaged (I was expecting this as I got a "special" price on the merchandise).
TIP: the width differences are important to take into account: sort the planks in 3 categories: thin, normal, wide using a female (groove) and male (tongue) template of the "normal" "category". When installing a specific row, use ONLY the planks of a same category. IF you do not sort the planks out that way, you will end up with small gaps from one row to the next where you abutted 2 planks of different widths. It is hence worth spending time to break down all your stock that way.
REMARK: sometimes, the groove side of a plank is of a different "category" than the tongue side of the same plank: use these planks to do transitions between categories within a same row.
As well, mix the shades from the different boxes if you do not want to end up with big patches of different shades throughout the floor. Big patches of darker or lighter shades attract your eyes's attention.

3) If you have sheetrock walls and do not wish to install quarter rounds with your baseboards, you can install planks closer to the wall by cutting the sheetrock 3/4" from the subfloor prior to installing the flooring. You can then install the flooring right up to the level of the sheetrock, giving you a 1/2" or 5/8" expansion gap (depending on sheetrock width). This also helps when installing (gluing and face nailing) the first and last rows, as you can slide the last row under the sheetrock before prying it back towrds the previous row(s), and the face nailing can be done right against the wall, hence your baseboards will hide the nail holes.

4) When gluing and face nailing the first or last rows, use a small prying bar or chisel with a piece of scrap wood to pry the last (or first) row against the others and face nail the last (first) row while keeping the tension; this should remove any gaps.

5) Organize your work to lay out 6-10 rows, then staple the first board of each row (start on your left if you are right handed, back towards the wall of the first row), then install subsequent planks of the same row by butting them into the first plank and the previous row using your mallet and a piece of scrap flooring that will be used to hammer in the planks tight against the previous ones. Leave the last plank of the row out so you can always take up any gap that will show up when you staple the planks you just laid out. Measure the length of the last plank by reversing it (tongue side towards you) and holding it in place. Mark the cut mark and lay the plank aside until you have installed and marked the last plank of the next row. You can then go and cut these 2 planks. THE PURPOSE IS TO GROUP TASKS OF THE SAME TYPE TO SAVE IN OVERALL TIME. Installing and stapling each plank before moving on to the next plank is not time efficient !!

6) When a staple does not drive in correctly and you have to remove it before installing the next row, USE A 6" METAL HAND SAW with a small flexible blade. This prevents you from damaging the plank by desperately trying to removing the staple using chisel, hammer, ... it also is much faster to do it this way.

ENJOY your installation !!! Remember, some things might still go wrong !

Good info !
Here are some additions based on my similar experiences.

60-65 psi works best for me, using 2" 15 gage staples in a Harbor Freight nailer.

I didn't have that problem with my bamboo, which I got from two different vendors for three different rooms of my house. Maybe I got lucky !

I WISH I had done it this way, but I didn't.
....next time !

There is a special tool for this that I bought. I think most flooring places will have it. It was well worth the ~$20 it cost.

I did similar, but sometimes was able to lay more than 2 rows, so I could make eben more cuts at one time.

Good idea.
They are also brittle enough that you can break them off by wiggling back and forth a few times with a pair of pliers. Then drive the remaining legs in with a nail set.

I have had a few gaps open up due to prolonged low humidity in my house (< 15%, Utah). I solved that by putting a couple ultrasonic humidifiers around to get humidity back to >25%