This is my first thread I'm posting, and am about to take on the project of a lifetime...my first house.
I got this Bungalow because I wanted 20's and I got it. Classic: Maple kitch, red oak the rest.

In trying to restore (not rehab) this house, I've spent the past 7 months leading up to this moment. I've stripped fir windows, oak trim, casings, base and sills. Stained Zar's Redwood, and strictly Tunged.

In trying to keep a fairly vintage feel, I'm not too concerned with filling the gaps between the obviously aged 4" boards.
IMHO that never looks good to me where I've seen it. Even the million nail holes from the dummies' in the kitchen maple. I know it'll not look perfect anyway. My only regret is that they used zinc or nickle twist nails for the sub. If they were steel like the good ol' days I'd have nice dark rust marks in there.

Anyway, would it be necessary to fill the gaps in the oak? They're not terrible but def. noticeable.

I plan on staining a jacobean or walnut to compliment (not compete with) the slightly redder/brown mission type stain I've been using on all the trim. And wiping. I want the grain to contrast with the closed surface. So, the filler may not take with consistency.

Thanks in advance!
I plan on making a new thread of complete documentation for the first time DIY'er complete with video and detail shots this week.....

The only issue I can see is when staining an old floor with gaps between the boards is having the stain pool in the gaps and not drying adequately prior to finishing. In cases like this, I'd recommend ragging the stain on by hand so as not to apply too much stain. Also, using a stain with good drying qualities, like the P&L or my fav, BONA DriFast. Stain that is too thin with poor drying abilities will pool in the gaps and continue to "bleed back", necessitating having to keep wiping the excess for the next day or two. I have had this happen. Fillers can help prevent this pooling of stain between the boards. But often, filler will crack and pop out of older floor with larger gaps. The best solution is to stain with care using a quality stain. I'd recommend against any Minwax product, including Dura Seal, in cases like these.

Hi there.

As a professional floor finisher, do you often have to educate the customer on what is possible and what is not? I can imagine cases where someone has seen a perfect flat showroom floor in their Home and Garden magazine, and want that for their old floor with big gaps. It this simply not possible on an old floor with big gaps?