I have just put my first coat of Fabulon heavy duty oil polyurethane on my red oak floor...I was planning on using a 18" vibrating sander with a 100 screen between coats...But on the can it says light sanding with 100 grit....Should I switch to a pole sander with a 100 screen, and sand lightly? If anyone could give me a asap response, have to return the sander costing me money if I'm not suppose to use it.....

thanks in advance....

First, IMO, I think the 100 grit is too coarse. I'd suggest 180 instead. One doesn't want to sand the finish off, just smooth it and knock off the sheen. You can do it both ways; by hand or machine. The machine will be easier unless it's a smaller floor. I wouldn't want to pole sand 1000 ft.

If you have any 100 grit screens that you used to sand the bare wood they will work fine to .. Like Gary says you just want to knock off the sheen The sanding has been done ..
Don't want to move the machine slow ..

Thanks a lot, purchased a 150 screen and moved pretty fast....Stupidly I used the purdy roller method and not happy at all....I will photograph and post pics....Hopefully with the lite sanding and 2 more coats to come with a lambs wool it won't be too noticeable...But never use a roller....little bumps everywhere, and I'm a handyman for 30 years and have painted a lot of surfaces so this seemed pretty simple but left small bubbles.....In another post someone said it is due to air flow... I had one window opened 5 inches just for ventilation, and still had small bubbles 50 feet away in a closed off hallway....Purdy rollers do not work.....

polyurethane Should be pulled with a applicator [Lambs wool ]. and pulled one way , not back and forth .. That will create the air bubbles ..

Rollers work, but it is not really used like painting a wall, or you will get bubbles. There is a trick to it, and using it like a rolling plow, instead of back and forth. Pour out a line of finish, after coating the roller good in a pan, and drag it like a lams wool applicator.


The first coat never looks good, seriously!! Once you build finish coats it comes to life.

Dura Seal OMU does NOT roll well and since Fabulon is owned by the same company Dura Seal is, it also may not roll well. Over-working poly is a main cause of bubbles. Dura Seal and Fabulon are notorious for looking "bubbly" after they're first put on the floor but since they are slow drying, usually, the bubbles pop and flow out. This usually freaks out the beginners, who frantically keep messing with it, trying to get the bubbles to go away. And in that process, introduce more bubbles. Lambs wool is quite tricky as well. Many get drips and hairs with it, not to mention the puddles. If I were you, get yourself a 10" Padco Paint pad and screw it onto a pole. With it, you can control the finish way more than with a T-bar or a lamby. It is easier for the beginner. Only other thing would be a wide, quality natural bristle brush. OMU brushes nice. I use a brush on stairs only and a Padco pad for small to medium size floors. And areas that are real cut-up. You still need to watch for puddling but that's a problem with any application method. I've brushed entire jobs with a 6" natural brush. It can be done. A few other pointers. NEVER shake the finish, only stir it. The floor AND the finish need to be the same temp. Don't store the finish in your cold garage and come in and apply it on your warm floor. Don't overwork the finish. The idea is to apply full, even coats, going the length the room along the length of the boards. Apply at about 500 ft per gallon. Too thin and it will not fill in the minute scratches from screening and just look bad, not to mention having too thin a wear layer. Too thick? It will dry very slowly and not be as hard, plus more possibility for bubbles. Good luck.