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 Post subject: Extending T&G Bruce glue down into Kitchen.
PostPosted: Sat Apr 08, 2006 8:23 pm 
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Looking for some tips on fingering in between the dinning room and kitchen. We have some original pieces of our floor that match great even 15 yrs. later. 8) We have found the floor to purchase and have been told it would be easier to use a T mold. YUCK! We are NOT going to do the whole floor ourselves but I am considering doing the fingering in cuz I have the patience and usually catch on to projects like this. So bring on some tricks of the trade! ! ! ! :)


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 08, 2006 10:35 pm 
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Location: Antioch, CA. 94509
What you are refering to is called weaving in or lacing in. It is done routinely. It reguires the installer to carefully cut out and back to factory joints some flooring so as to have the end butts staggered. It is kinda difficult to explain in detail and there aren't any "tricks" , just knowledge and skil. Another option that is sometimes done in doorways when adding on is to install header boards. These are floor boards of the same wood used for the floor but are installed at 90 deg. to the floor to terminate the floor. Sort of like a border but they fit between the door jamb. A standard door jamb is 4.5" and 2 standard strip boards are also 4.5". One needs to carefully cut a straight edge across the existing floor on the inside of the door jamb, install the two header boards and now you have a nice transition to butt the new floor to the existing. Just another option and way better than a T-mold.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 09, 2006 9:31 am 
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If your going to do the weaving, your going to end up doing the whole room basically, if it is a long opening. At least most of it.

Where are you going to stop the weave, so no weaveing is needed out in the room?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 09, 2006 9:54 am 
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One of the companys that gave us a quote said that "THEY" CAN NOT use any of our OLD ORIGINAL FLOORING(WARRANTY ISSUES) and that it would be an extra $300 to take up the few pieces that need to come up so that they can "FINGER IN" (their discriptive words) the new floor that will connect to the kitchen , which is an OPEN FLOOR PLAN, which is why I DON'T want to use a T MOLD. It is an opening that is about 9 1/2 feet wide. There is linoleum in the kitchen. The part I am looking for help with is taking out a few of the old floor pieces that are glued down so I can add the ORIGINAL FLOORING (Bruce, Glen Cove, Spice) and then THEY can do the rest of the floor. This will also save us from having to purchase alot more flooring due to the waste potential with this product. Does that make sense?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 09, 2006 7:35 pm 
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That's why you need to hire the actual installer that is going to perform miricles with what you want done, instead of some flooring salesman, that wants to push product, and be able to warranty the product. The salesman has no clue, what the installer knows. He just makes money on the sold product. Not as much on the subcontracted out labor.(the installers are not employees!!!)

Buy your flooring, and hire an independent installation contractor, you get to interview yourself, to install your investment, with your ideas.

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