i've noticed that manufacturers recommend an expansion space around all wood floorings, be they laminate, engineered, or hard wood. i've laid quite a few laminate floors and i've yet to see any expand the distance they recommend.

recently we just installed a 3/4" hard wood floor and i refused to allow 3/4" expansion around the walls and went with almost 1/2" or slightly less. i find it physically impossible for a hard wood floor that is nailed every 8 to 10", tongue and groove to actually move that much. if that were the case and wood expanded that much, would not walls or ceilings be in constant need of repair from cracks in the drywall?

i presumed that the 'required" 3/4" expansion is merely to safe guard the manufacturer only and this is an established "safe zone" for them. am i correct in this thinking?

Yes, you are correct. The 3/4" expansion guide came about by "someone" reasoning that if a single board grew by a mere 1/64th of an inch, then the floor would grow one inch for every 64 boards. But that is faulty reasoning. For one thing, not every board will expand exactly the same amount. Many floors contain some rift and quartersawn boards that expand very little, compared to plain sawn boards. Furthermore, the fasteners do restrict movement and most floors will cup in an upward fashion before moving that much sideways. The exceptions are floating floors DO require proper expansion spacing and very large installs, like gym floors, should have expansion "built into" the installation that allows for movement so the floors do not cup. I usually think a 1/2" is adequate for most regular residential floors. There are exceptions but my rule of thumb is 1/2" is adequate for the most part.

If this is, a case how is it possible to install ceramic tile and hardwood floors in a butt joint fashion. I saw it in many places, it looks very attractive, and I am planning to do it in my hose.

Would you have any advice for me? Should I nail down the edge that is in contact with a tile and let the rest of the floor float?

Thanks in advance

what type of flooring are you installing?

I would like to install engineering hardwood: ½ thick, 43-½ long, 7 ¼ wide (it is few layers of plywood and 1/8 of wear layer: Brazilian cherry or African chestnut). I am not sure if this is what you are asking but thanks for taking your time.

Every board in a floating floor has to float. Never fasten a board down. Use a transition strip at all exposed terminations. The transition strip is fastened down and constructed so the floor can still float underneath.

What happen when you have extremely heavy furnisher with high local load? It is just like anchoring this board. It will not go anywhere.
The next case is the rail for bi-fold door in the closet. The rail has to be screwed down to the floor. Even if you use short screws if there is ½ inch expansion this door will never function properly. What do you do in cases like that?

What do you mean by transition strip, T molding?

Thanks for your comments

furniture won't matter, regardless how heavy it is. you're not talking about visually watching a floor move here, it just might creep if humidity and or temperature effects it.

as for your closet door, i'm not aware of any rails that attach to the floor, usually the rail is at the top of the door and a pivot bracket is attached to the side frame at the bottom. it doesn't make sense to have a rail where you would step on it.

"transition" molding is made so that one end is lower than the other. the lower end butts against the lower floor. ie: your tiles

"T" molding is used when two floors of the same height meet. ie: a large room with an expansion break

Mga,
Now when I think about it, you are correct, as far as the rails in the closet. I do have two closets in the hallway and there are rails across the floor, however the pivot points are near the jabs. May be the previous owner had different systems installed before the
bi-fold door.

So what is the verdict, can I do a butt joint with ceramic floor. I saw pictures even on this forum, I know it is doable.

Thanks

hey...i'm no expert, but leaving any gap there would look terrible. you are going to lock that strip down anyways, so butt it against the tiles.