I'm new at this but am a quick leraner. I read your article on how to install plank engineered wood on stairs. One question: The article suggests to make a tight fit on the step and riser to the stringers. With the use of engineered wood, does the 1/4" recommended expansion spacing matter?

Thanks.

No, it doesn't matter. Cut the flooring so it fits tight to the stringers and risers. On stairs, to install trims to the stringers or risers looks tacky and unprofessional. The exception is installing cove or scotia moulding under the nosing (or landing strip) were it meets the riser.

Thanks, Gary.

you could try using a stair jig, I use one for solid and plank steps, bought it from a local disttributor but I'm sure you could find one online. an adjustable jig that fits onto the step and then tightens down at the exact size, simply rack a few boards together including the bullnose and trace the line from the stair jig, cut the boards and the step is done, saves a lot of time. If you can't find one, take an initial measurment of the step and cut each piece a tiny bit on the big side, then trim slightly untill it fits snug, too big is bettter than too small!....bullnose is expensive.

Yeah Sean, Those stair jigs work great. I use one whenever I'm installing either solid treads or flooring on stairs that have skirts on both sides. Another tip. Back cut the floor boards about 2 degrees. It allows for an easier and tighter fit. Can't do it on the nosing as you'll see it from the front.

Sure would like to know who you are Gary. Thanks for the great help you're providing.

Hi Ken,
I am a flooring contractor in N. Ca. and a member of the NWFA. Been doing wood floors for 24 years. I really like this forum and am just trying to be helpful to those just starting out. Also, good to learn tips from others and promote wood flooring. Best Wishes, Gary

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I'm currently at the end of my flooring project and have left the stairs for last. One big question I had that was answered by this thread is that no expansion gap in necessary on stairs. Thanks.

This thread also alerted me to the existance of the "stair jig" (also known by some as a "stair gauge"), so I bought a "Woodwise stair cutting jig" to help get precise angles for the tread cuts. However, the tool didn't come with instructions and only provides precise measurement from the back of the tread. I'd prefer having the ability to set the jig to measure the front, back and angle on each side of the tread. Seems to me that it would be easy to get the angles wrong with this jig without knowing the exact location of the front of the tread.

Has anyone used this particular jig? Any advice on how to best make use of it?

Thanks,

- Gordon

Well,Gordon,I've never used a jig,but I can probably save you a little grief.

I think the easiest thing you could do with one of those is to clamp together enough stuff to cover a tread and then drop the jig on top of your dry run. I would do it over a piece of 3/4in plywood so that you can stick a piece of stairnose on the end of your dry run. Seems to me that you could then,simply drop the jig on top of it and trace it.

Of course,you would need to meaure the distance from the stairnose to the riser and position the jig accordingly.

I use felt templates and scribe my stuff . That is due to the fact that I run into lots of crowned skirts. A jig is no good in that situation.

Undercutting the sides is a must with one piece treads. It would make it easier for installing flooring on a step,I suppose.

I'm sure there is someone out there with much better ideas than mine.

Best,
Chuck.

Thanks Chuck. I understand the part of about clamping and tracing. It's the actual measuring part that had me stumped. I called the supplier I bought the tool from and they were able to put me in contact with someone who could explain how to use the tool.

Basically the tool is a sliding steal bar with two aluminum "flippers" attached to each end, like any other stair guage. The flippers are squared at one end and pointed at the other. The bar has a spring that you can use to put tension on the flippers. You can see a picture of the tool at this site: http://www.woodwise.com/tools/jig.html .

Based on my discussion with the supplier and some experimentation, my understanding is that you follow this procedure:

1) Place the tool on the tread with the square ends of the flippers pointed toward the riser and the pointed ends out toward the front of the step.

2- Loosen the wing nuts that secure the flippers and slide the bar out to push the flippers flush to the skirt on boths sides of the tread.

3- Before tightening the knob that secures the sliding bar, push a little more to put the bar's spring tension on the flippers.

4- Tighten knob that secures the bar

5- After confirming that the flippers are flush with the skirt on each side, tighten the wing nuts that secure the flippers.

6- Loosen the knob on the bar to relieve the spring tension and then retighten knob to secure the bar (this establishes the width of the tread).

7- Use a bit of tape on each flipper to mark the front of the tread. (Makeshift, I know, but I can't think of another way to do this).

8- To prevent scratching the skirts, you can use the bar's spring tension in the other direction to push the bar inward as you lift the tool off the tread.

Now you have the correct measurement for the back, front, and sides of the tread.

If anyone who has used this tool follows a different procedure, please let me know.

Or just grab a pencil.heehee Remember ,you have some room for error on the front side. No one will see a 32nd from underneath.