I have laid 3/4" prefinished red oak to within about 3/4" of my metal front door. I had planned to use a piece of baby threshold to bridge this gap and still leave expansion space. However, my front door will not open with the baby threshold in place. If I remove the weather stripping from the bottom of the door, I think I will have enough space to install the baby threshold, but then I worry about having too much space under the door. I'm also worried about air coming in under the door.

Another option my be to simply put a strip of wood in the gap and fit it against the existing threshold, but I already have a problem with the door rubbing against the runner that we have placed in the hallway to prevent wear. The door will open, however, if I don't place the rug too close to the door. Is this a problem though, if I don't leave an expansion gap at the door?

What are my options? It's a Pella front door that came already framed if that matters.

Thanks.

jdi

You can use what is called mini threshold of you could just make a piece of flat mould using a piece of the flooring. I usually opt for the latter just because it is so easy to do. It also eliminates having to color match prefinished wood.

Thanks, but is the expansion gap an issue if I use a piece of the prefinished wood to fill in the space, or is that no big deal in just this one spot?

jdi

Damifiknow. Which way is the wood pointing? How far is the span? What is the EMC in your area. What is the MC of the wood?
A front door is a pretty lousy place to be installing it tight.

Have you already nailed doown that last board leaving 3/4" to fill? If not, glue a 1/2" rip along the last board before you install it. That should leave a 1/4" instead of 3/4" then use a silicone based caulking that is as closely colormatched to the wood as possible and fill the gap. The silicone will look sharp if you mask with tape before application. As it is silicone it will keep traffic water from seeping behind the wood, and it will give and stretch with any wood movement.

Trouble matching color you want? A little more spendy, but any Columbia paiont center or sherwinn Williams can make the right one for you with a sample of your wood to go by.

I've never used it nor know where to find it, but some have mentioned liking elastimerrit for this application as well.

I also do this when installing up to a tub or up to metal framed commercial windows that go all the way to a floor.

Good Luck

PS I am assuming the wood is running ACROSS the door.

Thanks. Sounds like a plan. Yes, the wood does run across, andI have nailed that last board down. 'm also running short of boards, but this still sounds doable. I suppose I can pull the last board up, or simply glue the 1/2" rip to the board without pulling it up, if I understand what you are suggesting correctly.

My floor looks great so far, except some minor damage that I caused by moving my refrigerator, but this has been some nightmare getting it done. I really could have saved myself a lot of heartache, time, and money by hiring this job in the beginnig. Oh well, it has been a learning experience.


I'm in the Birmingham, AL area by the way, with plenty of humidity if that makes a difference.

Thanks to all.

jdi

My biggest problem with this front entryway, is that the door threshold and the floor are almost identical in height. This does not allow room for the baby threshold to fit under the metal door, unless maybe I take off the weatherstripping on the bottom of the door.

Thanks.

I will be running into this same problem shortly. I'm considering building the threshold upwards about a 1/2" so it ends up higher than my floors.. I already know that I'm going to have to trim the bottom of my front door because of the floor height.

Another option would be to remove the door, use a sealed (all edges) 3/4" board on the subfloor then reinstall the door. This could involve a modification to the header above the door, depending on how much room there is above the prefab door frame. All one would have to do to determine this is remove the casing. If this option is chosen one should be sure to seal the 3/4" peice (all edges) and be sure to use a silicone on the bottom next to the subfloor and on the top next to the bottom of the metal threshold on the bottom of the door frame. This is what I did on a slab (new construction) to allow for the 3/4" plywood. Worked like a dream. The only issue here is the height of the rough opening for the door.

Thanks. Another good alternative.

jdi

Would I be better off cutting the old threshold out from the prefab metal door, and laying my 3/4" oak in place ot the threshold? My neighbor did that with his old wooden door, and does not use a threshold. The door is just very close to floor. Basicall, the oak strips took the place of the threshold.

Or would I be better off removing the whole door casing, laying my oak strips, and then putting the door with casing back in place? I am worried about the space above my door. I think I have enough room but I am not sure. The current threshold is also sitting about a 1/2" lower that the subfloor behind it, but about even wtih the wood strips that I have laid.

I tried the square nose against the threshold. It would work if I removed the weatherstrip from the bottom of the door, which could be a problem in itself. Maybe a piece of weatherstrippin nailed to the back of the door would work against the back of the door, but the square nose looks awful regardless.

Either way, I expect a major job here and time is wasting. I basically get to work on the house on Saturdays.

Takes anyone. I need help quickly. I'm trying to work on it now. Recommendations?

jdi

It may look ok, it may not. What about a rubber endcap, or modified stair nose cap.

I wouldn't want to have the oak flooring under the door and exposed to the outside elements. Problems would arise just from the exterior humidity and temperature differences.

By removing and replacing the door you would also have room under the door for a throw rug if desired in the future.