Hello, Last year I had "Hallmark Heirloom Natural Hickory" Engineered wood floor professionally installed in my living room, dining room, and hallway. It is a glue down on cement slab. The work done was outstanding but the installation also cost me twice as much as the floor itself. This entailed grinding down the cement sealing it because it had higher than normal moisture content and the installation. I decided that I now want to try to do the install myself for the bedrooms. I have installed tile, laminate floor, and man many DIY projects around the house. Is this something that is reasonably easy for a skilled DIY home improvement guy? I also wanted to have the wood change directions from the hallway to the bedroom. Its vertical in the hallway. When Im switching directions can I butt the top of the plank to the side of the other plank without an expansion gap? I will put other expansion gaps around the perimeter of the room. Last question, How good is MVP moisture sealer?

Thank You

Therein lies the reason it cost twice as much as the flooring. Lots of people think installers are trying to take them to the cleaners. But seriously, it's like using a really really good investment banker. Can you do it yourself, probably with enough research. But then you have the hands on skil that only thirty years of experience can handle.

I do understand how experience plays into it but I also watched a majority of the work being done by his two much much younger workers. Where I lack in the experience I would make up for in the extra time I have to take my time and do it right. He had to finish mine to get to the next jobs. I dont think he took me to the cleaners but I do think he charged too much for the three days of work it took to complete the job. Other than that does anyone have any answers to my questions or is that top secret information among those with the 30 years of experience?

I thought the same thing when I was having some exterior stone work done two years ago. Watched the guys like a hawk then tried a small test area for myself, away from line of sight. It's still not finished because I just couldn't get the knack of it. Particularly grouting rough irregular stone without making a mess. Now I'm hoping a vine will cover it up soon.

Some things should be handled by pros.

I say go for it. If you can get the concrete within the acceptable tolerances, I'm sure you have the appropriate equipment. You should be able to turn the wood in the doorways. I have never used the MVP since I don't do many glue downs. As I tell customers all the time sure I can fix my own cars, but it will take 4 times as long and I can make more then enough money doing what I do and just pay the pros to do it. Time and peace of mind is worth a lot to me. And as you said their work was outstanding, how will yours turn out. Just out of curiosity how much did the installation cost per square foot as compared to the material?

I Paid $5 per foot for the wood and $10 per foot to have it installed. Im starting to get the impression that this board is more frequented by those in the wood floor bussiness and less by DIY's looking for some answers.

Just to clarify, $10 per foot was just for the install. it was $15 per foot including the material.

See'ns how that wood ranges from $8.49 to $5.49 on the net I'd say you got a good deal. Without knowing all the details like floor prep, carpet removal, furniture removal, R&R base etc it's impossible to judge. Plus some areas of the country have higher priced professional labor.

Even the glue and mvp4 can run you a couple bucks a ft. Some guys charge to put down the mvp, it takes time and it should be appropriately charged for.



How would DIY's know the answer to how pro's charge? Usually DIY's are the ones looking to ask pro's answers, or am I off base?

Is it doable by DIY - yes. Especially if you have plenty of patience and enough skills to handle the proper tools and materials. I'm finishing up my own install (about 80% left). Glue is going to be messy, and you should really watch for it and not get it on the new floor. It doesn't have much time before it sets, so you will need to work quickly and watch for the extra in between the boards. Before you put down the boards on glue, dry fit them around door jambs, built-ins, closets etc. Some pieces are really hard to install in a tight spot, and you need to get the technique and shape just right before putting down the glue.

Don't be afraid, but do your due diligence.

Good luck

When I do glue down I charge 3.50/sf plus the glue adds around 1/sf I add that to materials maybe your guy put it on the labor. then there's the MVP material plus more labor grinding takes time so yes more money, we have to pay for the machine plus wheels. then if there was rip up depends on what it was costs money, what about disposal. Was there any finish work involved? It all adds up.

Well the deal on the floor was my doing. I got quoted $9.70 per foot from a shop. He said he could get it for around $7 and I searched the internet and within 1 hour I found a company willing to sell it to me for $4.99. Im sure not ordering the wood through him tacked on some extra labor cost. I moved out all the furniture, pulled off all the base boards, and ripped out the old carpet and disposed of it. He has his own huge cement grinder that he told me cost him $30,000 to purchase. So I understand he has to pay that off also. I truly am not trying to offend any professional installers here. I just was asking questions. I learned how to tile floors by watching youtube and reading 1 tile book. I am incredibly detailed and although it took me a lot longer than a pro, it turned out awesome. The more I did, It became much easier and I ended up re-tiling both bathroom floors and showers also. So I am reasonably certain that I can accomplish wood floor. I just have not done it before.

I really just didn't like the fact that a majority of the work was not done by himself. He showed me what work he personally has done then when it came to my house he dropped off two lesser paid general laborers. That is when I started thinking that I bet I could do this myself. The same thing happened to me on a copper repipe. The company has this full sales pitch about how all there plumbers were journeyman level and that was why the their cost was a little more than other companies. I expected some old guys to show up and what I got was about 5 guys that ranged from 18-25 years old. They did OK but they cut a lot of corners and did some rather chintzy tricks to stabilize the copper (BTW it cost $7000 in labor for one day). So to make a short story long, this is why I want to learn to do all my own home improvements.

Also I live in Huntington Beach California where its still over $500k for a basic one story house, so Im sure that plays into the prices also.

If it were here on the east coast then I would say you might have over paid a little, but I don't know what rates are out there. And if your willing to put the time in and you think you can handle the job go for it. But like I said earlier sometimes it is worth it to pay a pro. Not knowing you financial situation I can't answer that. I am starting a job tomorrow for someone that though he could do the work himself because he is handy. He started in March and his wife finally insisted he get someone because she is sick of living in a construction zone. Only you know if it is a job you want to tackle.

You make a good point. The rooms would be a construction zone for a lot longer as I would be doing this on the side of my current job. Keeping the wife happier might be worth the extra money. Thanks for all replies

I do my own installs like many others here. I could drive out there and do you job for less but then I would be at the beach half the time and would take as long as you doing it.

Lots of guys out here do the same as happened to you. Show pictures of jobs, claim they did them but in reality their glorified journeyman/helpers did them. My old boss used to do that to me and people would ask...."where is Jim"? I said " he is most likely at the gym working out. " LOL