I am considering installing either br-111 Triangulo or Bruce Coastal Woodlands floating on a slab. Any suggestiions appreciated.

One thing I didn't really understand was the use of a starter board in the Bruce instructions. I sounds like they are saying but piece of plywood up against the wall, that is the width of the hardwood + expansion gap, to tap against. Then, later removing it and replacing it with a piece of hardwood as the last step. It seems it would be easier to just use wedges the width of the expansion gap and tap against those. Am I understanding this at all ?

I have not installed those two floors. But if it is a tap togetther or tap tight product. I would wedge it off the wall/square it up maybe extra wedge here or there. If the base is off/drywall high you could cut a couple strips of 3/8 plywood and screw them to the wall. Sometimes the wedges will kick under drywall/if you have to tap extra hard. When done unscrew plywood put on base your good to go. GOOD LUCK WITH YOUR FLOOR

Steve,

Thanks. I just found a website that had step by step illustrated instructions. I think I will just use some 3/8 or 1/2 inch pllywood scraps on on all sides, starting in a corner. Then, on the last piece use a pull bar to tighten the joints.

As a final step, I wonder if replacing the scraps with sets of wedges hammered together in the expansion gaps would help keep it all tight while it dries? Heck, by the time I get across the room it will probably already be dry anyway.

Also, any suggestions on underlayment? I want a tight solid floor. I really can't afford a professional glue down installation, but think I can get a good result. I wouldn't think of doing a glue down myself. I am way to messy. I have tiled a few times and it was not pretty.

Seems like the Bruce has wider, longer planks vs. individual strips on the br-111, so I am leaning that way.

I just found a website that had step by step illustrated instructions.

BTW, it was this website - hardwoodinstaller.com. Thanks for the good info !

I hate wedging a floating floor. If on a wood subfloor, I use scraps to hold my row out away from the wall the appropriate space, ( after measuring the width of the room, and determining the width of the first and last row) and nail the scraps to the floor. Nothing moves. and it stays staright if you started it straight

Thanks SK.

So does that mean straps or wedges are not really necessary to tighten things up? Will the joint be tight from just tapping it in? I have a very large den/living room that extends off of my front entry hall. Is it ok to install it without having pressure on all sides?

Anyone is installing a glued together, floating floor without strap clamps is fooling themselves and their clients!

It's always recommended to follow the manufacturers instructions. Although Perry offers good insight on the board, I can't find any floating floor manufacturer we sell that requires or mentions the use of strap clamps for glued floating floors.

When have you ever seen a master craftsman not clamp a glued project? The compression of clamping, serves a big purpose, and not just to hold it together while the glue dries.

Thanks Floorguy.

I think the clamps/straps are a good idea. I was about to start talking myself into a glue down for a tight fit. But now I am thinking I can strap and tape the joints as I go. How long after I strap and tape the joints can I remove the straps?

I can see this working with the 3 strip engineered stuff like Bruce Coastal Woodlands. If I try to float the br-111 Triangulo (which I think is just one strip per board) I am not sure how the strapping would work very well. The one reason I like the Triangulo though, is that it has beveled edges and would look less like laminate. Is there a reasonably priced beveled 3 strip engineered floor?

Of the floating hardwood floors I've done, the quality of the product has been such that strapping was neither advised, nor needed. If you use a quality product, start straight, have flattened the floor to spec. I have only used 5-6 brands in this process, Kahrs, Award, (terra bella would fit your needs nicely) Columbia, Pergo, (yes, they make hardwood) Harris -Tarkett, and there are probably one or two I've forgotten, but may not be worth mentioning.
I use the same wedging technique shown on this site, to wedge the floor tight when quitting for the day, and aslo wedge the last row after completion. I like to leave them over night, but sometimes you can't.
I have a bucket of strap, left over from installing the old glued laminate floors, but they only are in my truck on occasion. Blue tape, and wedges, do it for me, and have served me well for almost 3 decades. To each his own.
Many different ways to skin a cat.

Thanks SK.

I am mostly worried about my living room that is 20'x20', has 3 wide openings, a fireplace and a built in book shelf. I won't have much wall to wedge against. Are the joints tight enough from just tapping?

The glue up floaters can still benefit from clamping. Coastal Woodlands and Tarkett are still glue ups. And many of the BR-111 are as well. The trick to clamps is to avoid over clamping and having enough. Award's classic three strip is like Kahr's, a tip n' lok type of thing. Works good. No need for clamps there. All us pros are forever refining our work habits and procedures to keep up with changes in the industry. What worked ten years ago is now out of date. Remember the Wilsonart demo tape that had you scooping up the excess glue with a spatula device and depositing into another container. You were supposed to get "squeeze-out" remember. The glue, the mess, the clean up. Thank GOD it's a tap n' lok now.

SK,

I looked at the Award terra bella Venetian Merlot and it is exactly what I need. Only problem is it is in $6+ / sq.ft range. I was looking for something in the $4-5 / sq.ft. range. I sure wish the br111 traingulo came with multiple strips and still beveled. That seems to be the key to giving it that 'real' hardwood floor look.

I really like the Bruce Coastal Woodlands Kempas floor. I am just scared it will look fake if the joints aren't perfect, even though it is beautiful wood. I currently have a cheapo floating floor in my entry way and the joints are really bad.

I think the single strips looks more like hardwood. The 3 strip design looks more like laminate that is why I will be installing BR-111 Triangulo when they come out with Santos Mahogany next month.