After some investigation it looks like BonaKemi Traffic is going to be our best bet for our refinishing job (chestnut floors in our new house). We are pretty handy, and are going to do it ourselves, but I cant seem to find where i can purchase Bona Kemi finsihes if Im not a pro.

Any ideas out there. Also, why is it a profesionals only product. Is it harder to apply? Or is it a marketing technique?

Thanks
Adam

It is made for the professional market. All two component waterborne finishes are for professional use only. It is due to the catalyst/crosslinker that must be added. It is not the easiest finish to apply but certainly not the most difficult. DIYers are often better off with a slower drying oil-based polyurethane that allows for more working time and easier touch-ups. Some flooring distributors will sell to the general public at a greater mark-up than the flooring contractor pays.

Can you suggest a quality product that you described? I like the low VOC qualaty of the BonaKemi.

How much of a markup are we talking about?

Thanks for your help.
A

A single gallon of Traffic at my distributors costs nearly $100.00 There is a small break if you buy a box of two gallons @ about $180.00+ local taxes. I guess prices fluctuate across the country, I'm not sure. I think contractors get at least a 10% price break so the public would pay at least 10% more. If it's a waterborne finish you are wanting, Park's sell a single component at Home Depot. I have not used it. No single component waterbased finish wiil be as durable as as a catalized finish but it will have the low VOC's. Minwax sells a good oil based poly for floors as well but it won't have as low of VOC's as a waterbased finish will.

All things being the same will the minwax produce the same results as the Bona Kemi? In terms of finished look and hardness?

Thanks,
Adam

No, it will not, the two part water based products take on an almost rubbery consistency once dry this is why they are so durable, to a certain extend they flex with damage whereas oil based polys are more like glass. A water based poly is almost like the spray on bedliners they put in trucks only really thin and clear. Oil and water have different characteristics but by nature water based are more dent resistant as it moves back into place as well they are more scratch resistant as it is more like rubbing sand on rubber as opposed to glass.

As far as look, a semi-gloss water based will look like a satin oil based.

Gary's on target as far as price goes about 100.00 bucks with tax is the going rate if you are a one time shot you most likely will pay aqbout ten percent over that.

Just as a data point, I am thinking of using traffic as well, for a diy one time job. I was quoted $98 a gallon from the local retailer. Not sure if that is more than the local installers pay or not (probably so), although we have bought flooring from this guy before.

Still trying to figure out the best way of application for a diy of traffic. Any recommendations would be welcome (roll, tbar, brush, ?).

Also, we want an almost satin look, but it sounds like I should be using semi-gloss with traffic, correct?

Ron

I pay $85 wholesale in FL, so they are not gouging you by any means. They make Gary pay more out in CA to keep the air clean.



Use a wide T-Bar the others are asking for trouble. You have to move fast and the t-bar is the best for water based.



The Satin Traffic is going to look like a wax finish without the luster. It is great but it is not the satin finish that you have in your minds eye. Traffic Semi = Oil satin almost exactly.

Thanks for the recommendations. I found that my parents have traffic on their white oak, they used semi gloss. This is in a lake house, so rustic is the look I'm after. I tried some waterbased poly (not floor, just olympic waterbased poly from Lowes) on some sample boards in satin, and it was a bit less shiney than my parent's floors. What I saw on the test boards would be great, but I don't want to spend 100 to figure it out.

Plus as I understand, the more satin the less my mistakes show. You guys have taught me enough to know that the floors in my current house were done poorly, so I'm going to give it a go myself this time.

Ron

I'm a DIYer as well, just put in a hardwood landing and steps (Santos M) finished with 2 coats of Traffic. I am really happy with the results, thanks to all of the advice from you good people on this site. I'm sure it would be even nicer had a pro done the work, but how I decided to tackle it is a long story. Since the landing is in a very high traffic area and I have kids I think I would like to put a third coat on after a little smoothing out. Can you recommend something to abrade the first coats with so the the third will adhere well? Something readily available? The first coats have been down a week but have not been walked on or touched, I don't want to screw it up at this point. Thanks everyone!

Rob W.

So how about some tips from a diy for us diy types? How did the traffic do? What did you use to apply? If you only did steps and a landing did you just use a brush? What gloss level did you use? Any other hints that might be useful?

Thanks
Ron

The Traffic is great. Like everyone says, move fast. Once the film has been applied it dries quickly. You probably can't go back and touch up a spot 10 minutes later (didn't try it). I think I put it on a little shy of the recommended coverage. It was hard for me to apply at that thickness. I used a foam pad backed applicator for the first coat but it left some fuzz in a few spots so I tossed it (one reason I want to smooth it out). For the second coat I just used a 3" brush since the total area was maybe 80 sq ft. The pros are probably cringing! I used the brush on all the stair nosing. Traffic appears to level really well as it dries. The hardest part of using it is laying down a consistent thickness and doing it quickly. Areas that looked to have thick spots when wet, dried level and clear, the grain is consistant. I am going to find a better pad of some kind to apply the last coat. I would use a t-bar applicator if you can get it. Maybe I was just lucky with the brush (done a lot of varnishing, fiberglass work etc.) but the Traffic seems to level really well into a tough, smooth film. It also has no odor. I used semi-gloss and it is pretty much a satin finish, it looks great. So... use whatever applicator the pros recommend, move relatively quicky, keep a wet edge, don't worry. Oh, I paid probably $110 a gallon, easily worth it. Best of luck

Rob

My MAN,
Traffic is splendid, but its true it dries fast. Not as fast as what I work with, (SYNTECO) but faster than what you should use. Which in my opinion is a DuraSeal Poly, I have recently seen it grace the shelves of a Home Depot...or was it Lowes, anyway one of them have it.
It is half the price of your traffic, and the sheen is really nice. It has a nice long dry time to allow you to trowel it on with a Shurline 9" paint PAD like a snow plow, straighteing your edges where you turn, and a it will do the rest. It will layout like a playboy centerfold, and the overall hardness is very competitive...afterall Duraseal used to be Contractor only. Go with a semi, easy clean up and dolls up nice for those mid summer wine and cheeze parties you and Eve have.
Trust me, the traffic is targeted towards the money makin scoundrels like myself who enjoy applying and buffing 3-4 simotaneous coats in two days and laughing all the way to the bank.
Go with the duraseal poly, and the shurline 9" pad...it is the closest thing you can get to a padco 10", small handle, no bubbles, and mucho controlo. No one needs to be a poles width away from a floor anyway, you can't even see what the closeup....
Good Luck
Jamal's Hardwood Floors
ALBANY OR

Jamal,
Ever consider writing poetry? You have a very flowery prose!