3/4 solid, Brazillian Cherry. Using a Bostich MK3 gun, M foot adapter, running 90-95 lbs pressure. Ran a few rows, saw dimples. I had divided the job in half, started the other side, using a Powernail 200 with a different compressor, same problem, but not as bad. The Mills tech guys were gone for the day, the tech guy at the distributor didn't know, Anbody have any ideas? I may drag out my old manual powernail, and give it a go, but not liking the idea of mailing off all tha BC by hand. My shoulder aches just at the thought....

SK, I'm guessing the Bostitch is using cleats? Have you tried staples? I've never had problems with my M111 FS using 2" staples into B. Cherry. Don't think the Powernail 200 is adequate. Pretty skinny little cleat, IMO. I'd try staples at 75 to 80 PSI. See what happens.

No, the Bostich is staples, the Powernailer shoots the cleats, the same ones as the old manual job. I tried (started) at lower pressure, as BC tends to split easy, (lots of discussions we've had about it). I thought maybe the nose was too close to the wood; perhaps some how in milling it, it came out a tad less in width. (Metric Canadian stuff). Floorguy suggested shimming, done that for splitting the tongues, but after thinking about it, realized that a strip or two of duct tape at the front may do it. Steepening the angle, and moving the nose away a bit.
Thanks for the advice, been waiting for ya...
Either way, I'll let you know.

Sounds Like the angle is wrong. Check tounge height maybe add bostich shim for 5/8 , and see if that works. Some times the milling is at a different height . BC can be very difficult to not split as it is so hard. I have noticed the darker the board the harder it is. I try to run lighter boards at end to avoid spliting when face nailed. I also use a 18 gauge nailer to avoid spliting , when face nailed. If posible I will glue the last row I can't get a nail in the tounge, with PL , then nail the last row under trim.

The M foot adapter had a shim under it, don't remember putting it in, but I must have. With it out, no more dimples. The location of the staples in the dimpled boards looked OK, but obviously were a little high. The cleat nailer we used was a 445, and the odd thing is, that it is not on the list of approved guns. The "E" cleat Powernail 200, the manual #45, and the BostichMK3, as well as a PrimaTech gun.
Wonder why they would OK a pneumatic stapler, and not the pnuematic cleat gun that shoots the same cleat as the OK-to-use #45? But it would be ok to shoot that bitty "E" cleat.
Dang, maybe this stuff is rocket science...
Thanks for the help, I'm using the cleat nailer. No split tongues.

I was wondering if it was milled to NOFMA specs. Could it be the tongue is a little too high or too low? Got a scrap off an older job you could check it with?

My first idea was that maybe because it was Canadian, it might be a metric thing. i took it home, and compared it to some 3/4 Red Oak leftover froma sand and finish job, and some prefinished solid. If there was a difference, it was pretty slight, but, I was on the garage floor, with a 4 foot level, no glasses on.
But like I said, why is this stuff getting so touchy? This Brazillin Cherry is cranky stuff to work with; pitch pocket discolorations, crazy grain, rapid darkening of the boards. Cupping and gapping being another normal part of this wider width solid. The customer got very little of that info from the saleslady at the retail store where they bought it. The saleswoman said they wouldn't buy the product if they knew all that. Well, maybe, maybe not, but I'd rather let them make an informed choice.
Thanks for all the help, finished up today, initial problem aside, sure is a pretty floor, good milling and finish, nice lengths, good product, would use this mill again, but maybe not BC!