That angled wall will definetely be a focal point for me.


Something else that has come to mind is with the stair noising going from basically the closet all the way around the lower dining room area and the fact that each plank will butt right up against it when I fill in what happens when the wood moves with moisture changes? will the noising move out with it?

OK, now here I need to bounce this idea off you guys. When I come to the hallway I want to go straight down the hallway rather than diagonally, attached is a revised plan with my idea as you can see. I know I could cut the ends straight, but I though this might flow better, any other suggestions would be great too.

I wouldn't do it the way you have pictured. If you want to change direction I would either cut both boards at 22.5 degree angle which will give you a 45 or you could put in a header strip at the transition.

As far as tight fitting the nosing and the plate in the Dining Room, I wouldn't worry about it. It wouldnt hurt to leave extra expansion in other areas. But if you keep the RH between range, the wood shouldn't expand to that extreme.

I would agree with Jeff about the 22 1/2 degree angles. But I think using a header would stop the flow. Then you have the issue at the other end of the hall where it continues at 90 degrees. You could 45 that... but the layout may look cut up. Personally, I would continue the 45 down the hall, but just a matter of taste.

I don't understand the 22.5 degree angle, can you show me a picture of this?

Laying the hall straight would intersect the transition at a 45. Cut both sides of the transition at 22 1/2 , ( that equals the 45 intersection ). This way your not installing a "step pattern", and meeting it with a "picket pattern".

Sorry, but I just cannot picture this.

Two 22 1/2 degree miters joining each other.

Like this?

Yes, I think that's what they mean. Personally I would continue the diagonal down the hallway instead of mitering a turn.

PS -- I was not implying one needs to start off at the nosing. When I layout a floor, figuring where I might start, I keep in account areas that will be seen and make sure everything is going to work out. One can adjust the starting line slightly if needed to get the high traffic areas to fit better. Diagonals hide alot at walls, so you have more leeway in the more areas.

I still did not explain that very good, but you get my drift.

carry on, and good luck.

You got it

Floorologist told you the straight goods on how to make that turn into the hall.
If you were to leave the ends at 90 degrees in the room, and cut the hall boards at 45, they wouldn't fit together since the 45 degree cuts would be longer than the 90 degree cuts.

IMO, mitering the boards to run the hallway flooring parallel with the hallway walls would not look good. Check this yourself by dry fitting some boards. If you want to run the hallway parallel with the hallway walls ( the long way ) then use a header board to separate the two directions. The other way does not fit aesthetically.

I still prefer continuing the planks down the hall on a diagonal

Another point though, to Gary's header.... It solves this problem... Keith mentioned the importance of being parallel to the "island wall", as a focal point. Unless the 45 degree angle is exact to the hallway, the 22 1/2 degree mitres won't work, the hall won't be straight, ( and a different degree will run the mitre points off ). A header hides this. Also after thinking about the asthetics...l have to give in to Gary

That being said... If you change directions down the hall, are you thinking of changing directions AGAIN where the hall 90's ?

I want to go diagonal down the hallway but I'm concerned I might not have enough wood considering the added waste. I'm going to leave the hallway until the end to see what I have left to work with. If I don't have enough extra to work with I'll look into my options of going 22.5/22.5 to go down the hallway or installing a header, I'll dry fit before I cut.