Flooring will be laid like so. From what I can measure, the right wall and the doorway wall are at a 150* angle, so math puts that my wood needs to have a 30* cut at the ends to keep the end parallel with the door opening. The flooring in that room is carpet, which will be butted up against the wood I guess. What is the proper way to transition from carpet to wood, especially at an angle like this?

I don't know if I have the skill/experience to cut each board at an angle to the exact required length to make a perfectly straight line across the opening. OR, actually I could START the floor in the opening, and then come out with it up to the opposing wall there in that nook.

I don't know if I'm supposed to use a T-molding, or if there is a way to get the carpet and floor together without one, and without leaving a sharp angle on the flooring...

Thank you.

first it should be a tunrned board in the doorway (IMO), run a board the opposite direction as the flooring (use youre new table saw to fip off the tounge on that board(s) nail it in place (if there is a door there just do it between the door frame to half way under the door., if not run it the entire length of the opening).
Then make an guestimate cut at the angle, put the flooring in backwards (cutting off the tounge side of the butt end) then placing the board(s) to the left of it) tap said board with the angle in place to see if the angle needs to be adjusted. (it aslways seems to be off by 1/2=1/4 degree LOL) if it is right staple it in, and cut 2 or 3 more boards and continue, always checking your angle

If at all possible, glue the turned board down and nail it, and glue 6-8 inches of the boards going into it (where the angle is) cut the paper back 8 inches or so and glue all of it (after you checked for fitment.) And routing the ends you cut, and splining would be preferred also

Oh wow...lot more to it than I thought there was. This house is annoying. That corner in the wall is 150*. That would mean that I would need 30* cut across the the boards to go straight across the doorway...but no, it's more like 37*. I really don't get it.

I attached a pic to make sure I understand what you are saying to do. Sounds like you're telling me I need a router. You're really looking for me to get divorced aren't you. Luckily my mother bought me a router for Xmas last year. (I just wanted a simple router to make a key rack etc., she went and got the best dang DeWalt that she could find, with all these attachments. Heck if I even know how to use them. )


Is this correct? Where exactly should the edge of the board fall, exactly half-way in the middle of that 1" section of the frame that juts out, that the door closes on?

wow your picture make it so easy.

all of your diagrams labels are correct.
and yes I am hoping for your divorce lol. you didnt think that it was actually going to cost you less to install it yourself, but the time we got done buying tools, and adding all your hours spent on it did you? lol

While you have the router (bonus for you) it takes a special bit to make the groove in the boards, carefull with the router, its a blessing for some projects, but not completly user friendly all the time.
(tap the base of it with blue painters tape to avoid scratching the prefinished boards. and using the t&g bit make a grove in the section you have pointed out in the picture. (I usually get a t&g bit from berlands house of tools for 50 or so.) But since Ive found this site, I have seen other pits more redialy avaliable and cheaper but dont know off hand the name etc. but im sure if you search for it you will find it
**makes note to lookj for it and order a dozen**

cut the paper you have laid down back about 6 inches before the turned board on your next piece. (thats where you will be glueing it AND nailing it.

the turned board should go 1/2 way under the door, it looks like you will be cutting the carpeting back about 3 inches. then cut turn and tack the carpeting back down. ( I have no advice, I pay a carpet guy to do it on my jobs )

*Depending on how high your carpet is, you may have to also re bevel the board and finish it on the same side where you rip the tounge off the lenght side of the turned board. Hopefully not.

and yeas it takes longer, I could proboally put in 150 feet in a square room, in the same time it would take me to do a small section like that.

and one last tip, when you cut your angle, place a pencil under the board (on the side that you will keep, slanting upwards (making the top finished part of the board sligtly bigger than the bottom.) to just put a small compound angle cut on the board, this will help it fit tighter, and would only be a degree or three cut, then tap into place if good route and install. Tap into place widthwise, then tap into the turned board, one staple/or nail in the tounge then retap it into the turned board. It always seems to be off 1/32 or so after the first staple. staple the whole section from right to left.

when youre all done, call your buddies over and show them the great transition you did. then tell them how hard it was, and that they should hire someone to do thier floors

Haha well like I said...one more saw or hammer and I'm going to the Big D and I don't mean Dallas! She'd beat me across the head if she knew I spent $100 on a biscuit joiner just to install one biscuit for the 45s at the corner of the stairs. I have a tool sickness. I don't mind spending the time doing it; I'm enjoying it for the most part and hopefully it comes out great, and I can be proud to say I installed this floor.

Unfortunately I'm not even sure where my router is at this point, I will have to look through my things and find it. I'll search around to find out what bit I need.

Thank you again for all the help with this doorway. Everything you said makes sense. Using that pencil trick, will let me get the surface tight up with the doorway board I assume right? Won't actually change the ANGLE of the cut across the board, just through it right?

you would be correct. Just makes those "exact" cuts a little tighter.

Im lost as to youre use of a bisquit joiner, unless you used it to put the endcaps on some stair treads?

When you do find your router, and the misc bits with it, see if you have a small 45 degree one (or something similar) once you make the angle cuts that will connect to the turned board (and route them for spline) you may want to run the other bit over the top of it to create a small bevel, like factory finished boards. a little sealer and youre set.

You dont NEED to route a bevel on those boards, it just makes it look a little better, and makes for a smoother transition. (Plus you already have the bit im sure) But if you really want to spend more money LOL I use a laminate trimmer for that, saves me from swithching bits

I agree. An alternative is to ease those mitered cut ends with some fine sandpaper on a sanding block. Then apply a little stain/finish to the sanded places. It may not be as uniform as routing but simpler, easier, faster, cheaper and certainly looks better than doing nothing at all.

I think I'm confused on exactly what I am supposed to bevel?

I always seem to atleast scratch 2 board per doorway, Of course the ones with notches ect. lol

I've got a question about the glue. How much glue do I really need to use? Anyone have a pic of about how much glue they're using when they put down a board (the pattern)? I have PL400.

for the splien I just use good old carpenters glue in the groove before the spline(turned board), then a few dabs in the groove of the miter cut boards.
For glueing it to the floor, as you begin to put this in, you will see that the last few inches are going to be harder to staple, So in some cases you will have to use the nail gun and blind nail above the tounge. I glue everything on any kind of angle close to the wall(door in your case) Just run a decent sized line of glue aprox 1.5-2 inches from that turned board, then again about an inch from where you cut the paper to.
The reason I do that is, in most cases you cant get the staple gun close enough to the wall to fasten the boards down (its about 10 in or so on 45 degree angles, and about 4-6 inches when you use the nail gun). Its just added protection to keep things where you put them

You will be cutting the ends of the boards at an angle, right? Notice the factory ends and what those cuts ends look like. Very different. So, the idea is to make the angled cut ends be similar to factory ends. OK?





??????????? What are you talking about? Eased the ends of the boards BEFORE you install them.

Yes sir, makes sense thank you!

I do. Its just always at the point where you look at the bevel you put on it, and see that one side is 1/1634221th smaller, so I try to adjust it, always results in scratching the top of the board (esp if it has a few cuts on it for the dorr jamb ect.)

Another transition question for you guys. Please reference the picture below.

If you notice at the right hallway wall (kitchen is on the right there), I have ripped a couple pieces to extend out the flooring half-way across the wall opening. Lengthwise, where it ends, I will continue on with the flooring out to the other wall, in the same direction as the boards currently laid. That rest of the area is kitchen, and will be tile.

Should I just screw down a straight-edge across the floor to the wall and line up each board on that, and have individual rows coming up to the kitchen? Or, should I lay a board perpendicular first across, and then have the individual boards come up to that?





First pic, with the perpendicular board? Or the 2nd, and just flush the ends of the wood?