Amish made hardwood

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 Post subject: Curved step up & down
PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 3:32 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 09, 2009 2:02 pm
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New here and need some advise from the pros

I want to install a glue down engineered flooring over concrete on my entire first floor but I have a raised dining room (see pic of floor plan). I really like the curve on the steps and only as a last resort would want to square them up in any way. The steps are about 10 to 14 feet wife and 16 inch deep. Please let me know if you need more information.

What are my options?

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Amish made hardwood

 Post subject: Re: Curved step up & down
PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 3:48 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 14, 2005 12:05 pm
Posts: 1391
Location: Knoxville,Tn
You will have to have the stair treads and nosing custom made to match the radius and hight of the new flooring. Your going to have to finish them on site to match the floor. I would call a company that specializes in staircase installations because more of what you have there is trim work.

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Kevin Daniel
Heartland Hardwood Flooring
Knoxville, Tn
www.HeartlandHardwoodFlooring.com


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 Post subject: Re: Curved step up & down
PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 7:13 pm 
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Joined: Sat Sep 25, 2004 7:42 pm
Posts: 4373
Location: Antioch, CA. 94509
There is a way to build curved treads. It is not easy. One needs to be a competent woodworker with some special tools. The process I use is:

1) make a good template of the actual tread. On long treads, it will need to be made in sections
that line up.
2) using either 1 x 6 or 1 x 8, SAS4, quality hardwood, I lay out the boards together so the
boards run slightly past the templates edges. I clamp the boards together to keep them
tight while tracing out the template shape on them.
3) I do make every effort to arrange the boards in a pleasing pattern, making note of the
grain patterns and color.
4) While the boards are still dry clamped, each board is labeled in pencil and the marks for
installing biscuits are made.
5) then using a plate/biscuit joiner, I attach all the boards together edge to edge, making
sure to line up the traced out template.
6) the tread is glued up well with Titebond 11 and clamped up overnight.
7) After scraping off any excess glue, I use a quality jig saw, to cut out the curved
tread.
8/ a belt sander smooths out the curved edge and my edger flattens the top.
9) If a 3/4" nose is called for, then I simply round over the outside curve with a 3/8"
round over bit and my router, top and bottom
10) final sanding with some 120 on my ROS and the tread is ready for finishing

If one desire a full 1 & 1/8" nose profile, the you need to add some 5/16" stock to the front edge and on the bottom after the curve has been cut. This part is a hassle but necessary to match some types of landing strips/stair nosings.


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