I am in agreement with Gary. I have a belt sander also, but ended renting an edge sander.

I'm betting that you guys are absolutely right. I saw them when I was at Home Depot...there's a Ryobi I think it is for $65. Rental joint is already closed. I might just end up buying it...might only use it a few times; but the cost I'm saving on installing myself will pay for itself quickly.

Wait, are you talking about one of these:



Or these:





Will the latter work? Too late to get an edging sander today.

Dave88LX

I am talking about the top one.

I ended up buying this thing here at Sears: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... ord=planer


It did a great job of knocking down this high spot. It was so high that it had to go down to the 2nd ply in order to level out! Luckily it's right over a joist so it should be OK, especially once the wood is laid over it.

Rest of the floor is coming along slowy but surely.

The first picture is an edger sander and uses sandpaper discs. I use one all the time for many things but mostly, sanding hardwood flooring. The second is a hand power planer and uses planer blades. They can work great on removing stock (wood) fast. Try to avoid hitting nail heads or it toasts the blades.

I'm glad I got the planer after I started using it. 36 grit paper couldn't TOUCH what this thing could do!!! Check out how much I had to remove to get that high spot down!

I hope your kids have a hamster to make use of all those shavings.

Naw no kids yet!

OK it's getting close to time!!! Got to prepare the top of the stairs tonight for the nosings and molding.

I'm curious though what kind of molding am I supposed to use to run along the top of the drywall there? I assume it should match whatever runs along the stringer...will it be the same as the baseboard too though?

The nosings, I understand that I will want to use liquid nails as adhesive and a few nails to hold them in place while the glue dries (putty after) correct? I take it then that I do not use the 15# paper under the nosings? Will that cause any mismatch issues, or is it fine?

I feel retarded measuring up to a wall with a tape measure because of course it's a bended radius, so have to kind of estimate. Most all the measuring I've done that mattered was straight, not to a corner.

I will have to post up my layout, and get ideas on where I should snap some lines etc.

Also undecided if I am going to go with wooden treads with white risers, or fully wooded with just white stringers. Opinions?

I like 5/8 x 3/4 cove molding. Simple and efective. Some places call it scotia molding (sp. ?)

I like PL400 (or PL200) for your adhesives ... Liquid nails is for sissies

While you're buying tools (and a sucker for overkill ) you aught to use this as a fine time for a buscuit jointer for any frame corners (if there are any) on your stair nose. Otherwise be sure to glue and clamp as well as a small finish nail to hold till glue dries.

I like the white risers myself. Nice definition and contast.

Good Luck on the project.

Can you post up an example of your Scotia Molding? I'm seeing different moldings called that...

Thanks for fixing me on the adhesive, I want to make sure I pick up the right stuff.

Unfortunately I don't know what a frame corner on a stair nose is. Or a biscuit jointer for that matter. I'm not sure I understand how to clamp stairs?

Haha what do you mean overkill? I guess I could have gotten away with Harbor Freight stuff is that what you mean?

I think I too would like white risers, I just have a feeling it will get filthy. I'm still up in the air about it.

The molding that I was asking about is the one that will run along the stringer, and then across the top of the drywall by the edge of the subfloor...

I think we have a similar layout - I'm in a split level with a raised section/stairs/handrail similar to yours.

See this thread: here

I'm planning to install stair nosing around my raised section too, and am also unsure of how to finish trim it etc.

I think you'd want to use the biscuit joiner for where your nosings meet up, ie the corners. It cuts a slice into each piece, and you glue a little wood biscuit into the holes. Same idea as a dowel, just thin/flat.

Yes! Exact same layout. I had to go look up what a biscuit/plate joiner was, and that looks like it would be the perfect thing to ensure that my corners match up PERFECTLY straight and level on the 90* corner. As it is, it's hard to get it to match up exactly right, I think that would do great. I searched on here and it seems to be a popular tool for similar work.

Heh made my first mistake. When I was leveling the subfloor, I marked a couple areas that were large dips that I needed to fill in. Forgot about them when I laid down the first row. (I need a highlighter! LOL) Pulled it back up, filled it the best I could with the 15# paper, laid 2 rows; but I still don't think it's good enough. Now I have to go get some luaun and shingles too, and give this another shot.