Any recommendations for DIY oil on doug. fir? It is for the bedrooms which will be resanded using a u-sand random orbital this weekend. EZV was not available anywhere. Not moving in for another week. Are they all the same at the consumer grade level? Was looking to do three coats. Not sure if sealer is needed. I was told that sealer prevents seepage of oil deep into the wood, which would reduce the amount needed. Does that impact the final finish positively or negatively? We are interested in only satin type finishes, and do not have pets or kids to destroy the floor. Also, we do not wear shoes in the house.

Any and all recommendations are helpful.

BTW, thanks for all advice on the oak questions I also posted. We have a NWFA refinnisher scheduled for next week to begin work. Looking forward to the results.

Thanks in advance.

KS in NJ

Just to be clear, the sander coming in next week is doing the downstairs red oak, but I still need some guidance on DIY upstairs douglas fir sanding and polyurethane process.

Thanks again to all.

Just finished sanding (36grit - rough cut) the douglas fir. Rented a U-sand random orbital from HD. This is my first time sanding, and was not as bad as I expected. Ironically, I thought the 36grit paper was going to be too harsh on the fir. After a half hour of sanding, I was hoping that a lower grit was available to dig into the floor quicker. I decided on Minwax oil poly (not high build) and am using an oil sealer first once done going through the 80 and 120 grit paper. I took some before pictures, and will post the "after" ones later this week.

Anyone thinking about renting a random orbital u-sand should not be intimidated. It may be slower than the drum-types, but seems hard/impossible to screw up.

I am still in the dark on how to apply the poly. HD guys knew the "what", but didn't know the "how." Bought some sheep's wool, but not sure if it should be poured onto the floor directly and pushed or dipped into the paint tray as needed.

Thanks again to all previous and future contributors. Great board.

I personally pour onto the floor in a line from one end to the other parallel to the way I will be running the applicator. I then sweep the applicator across the poly that has been laid down with the end furthest away from me in front to funnel the poly over for the next run. I do this until the poly runs out and cover as many roes as I can. Does not lift the applicator when you reach the end of the run just make and arch and start heading back the other way. If you have an assistant it makes it even easier. They can lay the poly ahead of you while you run the applicator. Start opposite of your exit door and plan your sweep to land you at that door for the last stroke. Have a towel and a plastic bag waiting to put the applicator in. Run the applicator as far as you can and then lift quickly into the bag, which is over the towel. Have a small applicator / cheese cloth / something ready that if the applicator drips onto the finish while picking up you can wipe it out. Repeat this process two more times.

Oh yeah do not push the applicator, pull it. If you push it you will inevitability step in the poly as you are laying it in front of you. Pulling causes it to be laid behind you out of your walking path. In reality it causes you to stand to the side of the applicator but its kind like in front of.

Thanks for the info. They do not put these types of instructions on the can. Go figure. The sealer I used (Pro Finisher?) recommends on the can to "hot apply" the OMU for "best results." In otherwords, do not buff or sand before the first coat of poly. Considering that the floors were very flat upon sanding, and now look less slick and smooth since sealing, my gut feeling is that I should ignore the sealer can's advice and buff before the first coat of poly (OMU). Seem reasonable or should the can instructions rule the game?

Thanks again for sharing your experiences.

KS