Hi,

Can someone please help in understanding what Bruce has as installtion guidelines for 3/4" hardwood (see below):

i. When face nailing, can I do it at 90 degrees (perpendicular to the hardwood) or it has to be at 45, as what Bruce suggests?
ii. For the first row, I though I just face nail at regular intervals. Bruce suggests that I face nail at the groove side and then blind nail on the tongue side too?

Thanks ......


********************************BRUCE GUIDELINES******
STEP 3: INSTALLING FIRST ROWS - WALL-TO-WALL INSTALLATION
Pre-drill the nail holes 1" from back (groove) edge, 1"-2" from each end, and at 6" intervals at a 45° angle down through the nailing "pocket" on top of the tongue.

Face-nail the groove side where pre-drilled. When complete, blind-nail at a 45° angle through the tongue of the first row. Fasten using 6 or 8d nails. Countersink nails to ensure flush engagement of groove. Avoid bruising the wood by using a nail set to drive the nails the last 1/2" into the tongue.
Continue blind nailing using this method with following rows until stapler or nailer can be used.
********************************

Face nailing means straight down throught the board. This is done along the starting wall, so the trim molding hides the top nailed fasteners. A brad nailer works great for this. Drilling and hand nailing are almost a thing of the past.


Then in the tounge side try to maintain a 45º , while fastening.
Hand nail or brad nail, until the floor runner can fit to continue, across the floor.

When you get to the opposite wall, hand or brad nail, when the floor runner doesn't fit, trying to stay in the tounge, so it is blind nailed as far as possible, then top nail.

Floorguy, do you mean for the very first hardwood strip, I would have to face nail AND also nail at 45 degrees along the tongue? Why wouldn't just face nail be enough?

Thanks

Yes, that is exactly what is standard practice.







Same reason you wouldn't just nail the tongue side.
If you face nail right next to the wall, depending on the boards width, you will have a wide spot that isn't fastened and chances are it will kick up.

Even though you are only blind nailing into the tongue on the remaining rows, the T&G design holds the groove side tight to the substrate.

Theoretically you could just 45º into the tongue side, and use the trim molding to keep the edge next to the wall from kicking up.

Floorguy,
I have three more questions now.....
1. Can I use liquid nails and not tongue nail the first row. The reason being face nailing manually is easy but not tongue nailing. The liquid glue should provide added hold?
2. How exactly do I tongue nail manually....meaning, for face nailing, I first pilot drill and then use a hammer and finishing nail. Is it the same process for manually tongue nailing?
3. How do I space the same?....say for 6' length of first row, I start with a face nail, then at what distance would the tongue nail be placed and then where would the next face nail get placed? I assume the two would alternate?

Really appreciate your help....Thanks

There are guys that will glue the first rows. I have never done that. It is much easier to face and toe nail for me. I don't face nail the edge, until I get at least 3 - 4 rows out. Helps to keep the floor tight. I always pop a control line to make sure I'm straight.


Yes, the same process, for the tongue as for manually face nailing. You will need a nail set / punch to drive nails in with. A pneumatic brad nailer is the way to go! You can use it for the trim molding too!!!


Spec is every 8 inches. I am usually closer to every 6 inches when I fasten one down.

Floorguy,

One last q on this topic....

How do I space the fail and toe nails. You mentioned 6-8" but would they alternate or both go together at the same place and then repeat after 6". Meaning in a space of 6" between two sets, would there be 2 nails (one of each) or 4 nails (2 of each)?

I have another q about whether to remove existing base moulding. I will open another thread. would really appreciate your comments....

Thanks a ton

I don't take out a tape measure, and mark my fastener spots, so they are perfectly 6" apart.

A 3 foot board gets 6 fasteners, but 5 is within spec.

It doesn't matter if they are across from each other or staggered. That would be your choice, as long as they are no more then 8" apart. 9 inches won't kill you but 10 " might. I have never experimented with the amount of fasteners to see if the specs are right.