Can you install click-lock flooring underneath baseboards that have the lower part trimmed to receive them ?

I'm flooring a 10x12 room and want the more professional look of the floor going under the baseboards. (Actually I'm lazy and cheap too- don't want to pull the baseboards off or have to paint and trim quarter round or shoe moulding).

Seems when you start a new row no problem. You install the click-lock board in the normal manner OUTSIDE the baseboard and then tap it sideways until it slides under the baseboard (leaving of course the 1/4 inch expansion joint).

BUT: what happens when you get to the end of the row at the other side of the room ? Seems to me you can't do the same thing, e.g. install it normally and then tap it sideways until the end is under the baseboard because it will be too long to install.

I know you can trim the tongue sometimes so a piece slides into place without having to first angle it up 20 degrees or so and maybe glue it (since you've destroyed the "click" and the "lock". Is this how you do it ? Then I guess you'd start there with the next row going back the other way ? If so exactly how do you trim it ?

Or is there some other trick like installing the last piece before installing the next-to-last piece.

Or should I gut up and pull the baseboards or use quarter round ? I'll be disappointed since I even have the tool for trimming the baseboards...

Bob

You can do it, but you need a slight space between the base bottom and the flooring.... which means you need either a base shoe or qtr. round anyway, just to keep the floor pushed down good.

Floating floors need something pressing down along the perimeters to keep the floor from shifting too easily.

Thanks Jerry for taking the time to respond. You said you can do it IF you have a slight (additional) space between the baseboard and last board. I assume that is so you indeed can tip the last board up a little WHILE its UNDER the baseboard to click it in, correct ?

And if that additional "slight" space is big enough to see, seems I've defeated my purpose anyway in needing quarter round or shoe mould.

You're the second person to recommend pulling off the baseboards, so I've finally decided to take you all's advice. I looked at it again and it's not THAT much work (probably the same as trimming the baseboards !). And if I do it carefully I shouldn't have that much painting and repair to do.

BTW, the other reason for pulling them I had never heard before- thanks. (putting down pressure on the ends of the boards to keep them in place). I'll keep that in mind when I replace the baseboards. THANKS.

Bob

You still have to trim off the locking tab with a chisel and use glue there to pull the board in flat. The small space is for my strap clamps to fit in, then I loosen them slide them out from an end.

I'm sure you know how to remove the base without damaging it. Once it's off pull any nails out from the "backside" using lineman pliers.... grip the nail from the bottom and pry sideways at a right angle.

Jerry,
Sorry to keep coming back to the well but you keep bringin up stuff I don't know and obviously you know what you're talking about.
What are "strap clamps", what do they look like and how are they used ?
And NO, I can't say for SURE I know how to remove baseboards without damaging. For example, like a doofus it never would have occured to me to take the nails out from the backside.
I assume you just use a wide pry bar and a block of wood held on the sheetrock just above the baseboard where you're prying, and then the pry bar presses against the board to spread the prying load out across the sheetrockand to avoid denting the sheetrock ? Anything else or tricks of the trade ?
Thanks again. Your responses have been very helpful to this rookie.
Remember, wifey letting me buy a new tool toy hinges in the balance if I don't mess up this floor project too badly...

Bob

If the base boards are painted they may be painted or caulked to the wall. This should be cut first with a a razor knife before removing the base boards. This will also not allow you to remove them without reluctantly have to do paint touch up of the wall and the basebaords. As you pry them off try and only use pressure once you have worked and fed your pry bar down behind the base as far as you can to avoid breaking off the top of your baseboards.

Jerry, thanks again. I got them off using your advice with only one small tear on the wallboard where the caulk hadn't released I can easily fix.

Nails came out easily from behind and as a reward now I get to buy a nail gun. Glad I didn't Cheap Charlie it with quarter round.

And what are those strap things ?

Thanks again.

Bob

You don't need straps Bob. But they have ratcheting ends to pull boards together. I bought mine before manufacturers had the no-glue joinery systems. Now i just find uses for them ... like Bruce persuaders.