If you do decide to sand again you will expose the stain as darker than the surrounding wood, again. Most floor mechanics don't have time to play around with bleaching the dark areas which creates different problems. One way to make the stained area less noticeable would be to polish the surface smoother than the surrounding area. If you finish your whole floor with 100 grit, then use 150 to sand the dark area it will absorb less stain. Hand sanding around the stained area with a coarser paper by hand, say 60 grit, will help blend an area around the stain, too. A dark stain will be the best to start with. The urine stain will have no red hues, so it would help to have a tint this color to add to the urine stained area to have it stand out less. You will also be able to make the whole floor surrounding the stain absorb more stain by wetting the surface with water to pop the grain, opening the grain to more stain being soaked into the surface, kind of like wetting with bleach, but with clear water. These are two ways to prepare the wood for a more even stain color. Another technique to diminish the contrast is to use a lighter stain color, or thin the stain with a natural colored oil to dilute the color, if you are using an oil based stain. Since it takes a high level of talent to make stains acceptable the best solution to pet stains is to replace the damaged wood with new wood matching the specie and grain pattern by finding patch wood that is as close to the original flooring as possible. Of course new wood may have it's own challenge in blending with the existing old flooring.
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