Okay guys, I must get some feedback on this one, understanding that clearly there will be a vast range of answers!

I have installed wide plank (solid only) wood floors all over the country on various substrates and in many climates. When I say wide plank I mean 16' lengths and widths up to 24". I typically use vapor barrier, plywood, then blind-nails & a lot of GOOD glue, sometimes face-nails to set the glue. For obvious reasons, the floors I agree to glue directly to the concrete are limited per specie, thickness, jobsite, widths, lengths, etc.

While we have had great success with the stability and look of our wide plank floors upon completion-- I HATE DOING GLUE-DOWNS!! I realize I must adapt with the changing marketplace, but as a custom and very specialized finish carpenter I am also challenged by PRICING. The more money they have the less they want to spend-- you know how it goes. Do I just need to keep doing more of these in hopes that my speed will increase? Not including material costs that I do pass onto my clients, clearly I must charge more for doing a glue direct floor, especially with the high costs / legalities of doing business to begin with (here in FL). Does it take you twice as long especially having to handle these large boards? How does anyone "wedge?" It is messy, slow, I dry-fit each plank in fear if it is bowed and I missed it I can't get it back up!!

I fight for $8/SF for I/F and want to get a minimum of $12! What do you think?
Thank you for making me either feel better or gain a different perspective-- I need it, and the poll on the main page doesn't really apply for this.
Kelly D.

I love glue down, but I won't glue a wide long plank!! What a pain in the butt! Once in the glue and that much surface, the plank doesn't want to move at all to get it into the T&G!

I have used Carlisle's method for gluing and nailing wide planks. It will not work on direct to concrete but Carlisle does not recommend that anyway. Instead of full spread adhesive, the approach is to use PL400 and run a 1/4" bead every 8" on the backside across the width of the plack, then flip the board over (with help if long) and tap into place with a tapping block. Then blind nail into the tongue. I've tried full spread gluing with oak planks and Bostick's Best and it was a bear getting the T&G engaged. With Carlisle's method, very easy!

You need to get paid a big premium, especially when you are working in uncharted territory. Lots of guys hate glue downs at first. I think your price is justified. As soon as you get a good system in place for it you will learn to like it.

Thank you guys very much! Got done with the first half (900 SF-- Hickory) at about 5AM this morning, just in time to put the 1970 clunker desks back together and in place for the President of the company whose office we are doing-- he showed up at 2AM TO WORK!!! The next phase is only 600 SF or so next weekend which will be a breeze in comparison to this last area where we also demo'd an existing wood floor prior to the install.

Like you said, practice may not make perfect but it does become "easier" if nothing else!