Hi all
I've put the order for engineered, locking oak floor, but I came to realization that I will need to change the direction (180 degrees) in two rooms and a hall. How would one do that with locking floor? With T&G - there is a small piece that is installed into groove, but what about the special grove in locking floor?

With a floating floor it's required to install t-mouldings in the doorways under 4',
( expansion requirement). So obviously easy to change directions at t-mouldings. Without seeing the layout, I cant tell you if t-mouldings are required . Not a big fan of them, but easily solves your problem.

Some of them are easly installed backwards. Depends on the type of locking mechanism. I don't do doorway T-caps no more but only ask the client to inform me if any bouncyness in the floor starts, then I will come out and then cut open the doorway and install a T-cap.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/13772863@N08/4047020943/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/13772863@N08/page3/ (bottom of page)

My bad Misread the post. I read it as changing the plank direction, not the t&g.

So how would you connect the two? I'm going with the grove sticking out originally, but when there are a few spots where floor is overflowing into the hall and from hall i have to back into an office. The transition now becomes a "tongue" out and not a grove. I guess i could try to install the floor with the "tongue" being the leading edge, but I thought that wasn't the proper way to do it.

Need to know what product your working with. Some simply lock in backwards with a tap to tighten, some you must rotate lock.

They're all reversible, it's just a matter of the best way to lock um together. Take some scrap pieces and test it out. Your going to be able to do 1 of 3 things or all 3. Lock in by hand, start the lock by hand and use a tapping block to finish, or strictly use a tapping block. Just be sure when using a tapping block to use finese, dont damage the edges or t&g.

It's Carriage House, Engineered, Lock oak floor for a floating install.

Carriage House is a great product. It reverses direction easily. It locks in by hand either direction, I then use a long tapping block and kinda give it a light slap ,( without a hammer), on the long side, just to make sure it's engaged good and tight.
It will also go together either direction by strictly using the tapping block, with hammer ,( I do this for undercut jambs, casings, fireplaces only). You have to slam it pretty hard, but it wont damage the edge or t&g. And this way you dont have to trim the lip on the groove, and use t&g glue.

I've done several locking laminate floors and the directions always say I need a transition strip in doorways. Do the engineered locking floors not require this?

All floating floor products say to install t-moldings in doorways. I always do in hallway to bedroom doors. if it is a major area without an actual door I talk with the customer about it. Lets face it you can do all the moisture readings you want but if thee home owner doesn't maintain a constant you could have problems. If you install a t-molding like the directions say you haven't done anything wrong, but if you don't install one and there is a problem you are responsible.

Lets face it, no one likes the ugly things. Last two people who asked I not do it I was installing the entire house cept baths, the Mirage no baths or kitchen. I just explain how it is very important they maintain proper ambient interior conditions. Then I put that into writing, have them sign off and that they will be charged appropiately for a repair. The key to this is very deep undercutting.

Should be ineteresting that the Mirage is going through it's first summer now, and that one wants huge expansion like a half inch, we'll see.

Can it really be any worse than a nailed or glued hardwood floor that has no transitions? I hardly think so.

I had the same deal with a whole house of Carriage House. Customer didnt want those ugly things. I had them sign it off, and that they would be responsible for repair work if needed. All undercuts are very deep. Hopefully each room moves semi consistant with adjoining, ( better yet little movement). Worse case cut it out in the doorways and install those ugly things. The floor will go back down. I talked in depth with the manuf. before I decided to do this,( even talked to the owner ! ), I was sworn to secrecy but I cant keep a secret...He has Carriage House through half his home, including 2 hallways & bedrooms with no t-mouldings, been down 3 years. Ofcoarse he know how important RH is.

Ah Ha! No secrets for you now! hee hee

Last laminate I did was the stuff from Costco...Harmonics...made by Quickstep via that carpet manufacturer with the Indian name that has the UNICLIC locking mechanism. OOPS...thats kind of a secret too. My Bad But they started takingf the Mohawk name off the boxes recently. I guess people were figuring it out and the retailers were getting PO'd. Easy to go backwards

So I did a typical ranch house with three bedrooms, L shaped living/dining room and L shaped hall. Plus...this is really stepping outa the box....the Harmonics has an attached cushion and I used QuietWalk and 6 mil plastic under it. Over-kill? Absolutely!!