Hey I ain't arguing with ya Howard. Your a victim of a Perry hit and run...and he ain't coming back to make a case with ya. hee hee

Arm, leg or neck? Heheheh!


It is an adhesive.



You two guys live in a very arid region of the USA.

Where I'm at it could be above 60 rH for weeks and then have a full week of 15-25%rH

That is a big swing, to handle being glued in.

Adhesive? Glued In?

If you really believe that...I don't know what to tell you anymore. Your beyond help. You are joking right?
You really believe caulking the gap at the bottom of base is locking in the floor? This must just be an excuse for not detailing the job. I'll bet your installs look special with the base gaps.

I'm not even going to justify my time on this conversation anymore.

Oh c'mon Howard, where's your sense of humor, we're just beginning to have fun. Perry has the ear of the NWFA....errr.....the NWFA has Perry's ear. He gets the inside scoop of the rumor mill on that gooky forum they use.

Perry says;

Yea OK but ours can be like that as well but the opposite, very dry for longer periods (in the negative numbers like -7 to 12% rh) and then the monsoons hit from Mehico and it's suddenly 98% Rh. Not to mention we get lots of winter rain too. So in effect they can move alot....just not all the time.

100% silicone caulking is a very good adhesive. It is used all the time as an adhesive.
I can think of Granite counter tops, glass, automotive....

It is an excellent adhesive.

From the harmonics instructions... "Never attach the molding to the floor." Silicone use at the join, is attaching it.

From US Floors Floating instructions... "Never attach skirting board to the floor itself, but allow
space for the floor to expand and contract beneath it."

I really don't care if you believe me or not, son
Your set in your ways and your mind is made up, I know exactly where your coming from.
Your region is pretty static as far as rH... It may work fine where your at. I wouldn't expect too much movement once it acclimated.

Here, and other places like where I'm at, winter can be 25% and summers 60%.

Speaking of attaching somethin to the floor. Went back to put in a transition at an upstairs patio door...cus there was no door at the time (remodel) Told the GC, the GC's son who called the door guys to flip back the last rows to unlock the laminate floor. Of course they didn't. Eight foot french doors screwed to the laminate. Time to get the saw out or wait? Cus I am back charging.

I never once have mentioned 100% silicone, I wouldn't have, because I dont use that. Get your facts straight before an attack . Painters caulk or siliconized acrylic caulk. Big difference. Neither one will lock in a floor.

I appreciate being patronized...son. After 38 years installing floors maybe a tiny bit of respect might be warranted. But hey...you obviously DO care what I think, cause you cant let it go. And you dont even have your facts straight, Inspector

Oh, yes it will. or you got cheap caulk and it cracked and shrank.

What? The 100% silicone idea didn't work? lol

Do me a favor...Take a pre-finished plank, squirt down some siliconized acrylic and some painters caulk, then see how tough it is to pull them up in a string. I know...you dont have to I'm sure those caulkings adhere to the plank stronger than the movement of the floor, or the psi of a safe or pool table.Yea, it must be shrinkage. You got me man, I give up,your right, have another lol.

I was thinking of this just this friday. I'm in the middle of a large floater. As I was gluing the engineered together I had to strap every row. One of the older straps that does not quite get over the tongue had damaged an edge of a plank. I didn't notice until it was two rows back. That was only about twenty minutes or so in a 20ft span. Ya'll know how quick I am.

So I had to pull apart a row to get to the damaged plank. Had to use my Board Bully to unlock the first row. By the time I got the the damaged plank even the Board bully could not pull it part. First I took a 3/8 chisel to it.....no good, had to pull out the 1 1/2 inch chisel to pull that puppy apart. And that chisel went almost all the way through a seven ply plank, several times up and down the length to break the bond that was only twenty minutes old. I was about to pull out the ole skil saw on it. lol

So Perry, your telling me that some acrylic caulking is going to pull apart a glued engineered T&G floater? I just do not think so. Maybe some inexperienced DIY'er that did not correctly use enough edhesive, maybe. Even elmers would not pull apart I think if it was glued correctly.

The glueless floaters, including laminate.

So now you mean just clicks? Thanks for clearing that up. Still doubt it cept for maybe end joints pullin open.

Glued together engineered wood(real balanced engineered wood) is not going to move near as much as a Laminate or the new manufactured stuff they are calling engineered. Your going to get by with more, since it is more forgiving and the movement is minimal, even if there is a big gradient in rH from season to season.

Glueless, the joints are not as strong.
I wish I could post pictures directly here! I'd show you.
If I had a video camera, with audio you would be convinced.

That rice crispies sound, is more likely as the rH rises, than a gap as the rH drops.

Maybe it's just the Austin weather like you said before. What works or happens out west does not necessarily happen in the Midwest and vise versa.